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Erlend Hansen Luc Triangle

Presentation of the TCL Sectors Brussels, November 2012. Erlend Hansen Luc Triangle. General overview TCL are under pressure in many ways Textiles and clothing are by far the biggest The enterprises are small or medium-sized. Only a few TNC’s (Inditex, Triumph, DB Apparel,…)

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Erlend Hansen Luc Triangle

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  1. Presentation of the TCL Sectors Brussels, November 2012 Erlend Hansen Luc Triangle

  2. General overview • TCL are under pressure in many ways • Textiles and clothing are by far the biggest • The enterprises are small or medium-sized. Only a few TNC’s (Inditex, Triumph, DB Apparel,…) • SSD is currently functioning in two branches • A range of EU initiatives are relevant for TCL • Tough global competition • Still positive elements to build on

  3. Official employment in Europe (Turkey excluded) • Textile and clothing: 1,900,000 • Tanning and leather: 35,000 (tanning) and 85,000 (leather goods – general) • Footwear: 275,000 • Textile services: estimation of few 100,000’s • Subsectors like fur etc.: Unknown

  4. Special features of TCL • Outsiders in the manufacturing industry • Italy remains by far the largest employer. Almost one in four workers is Italian. • Mainly female workers • Ageing workforce • Textile is relatively capital intensive and produces higher added value, apparel and leather create more jobs

  5. Key figures for textile and clothing (EU 27 in 2010) • Companies: 150,000 (- 7%) • Employment: 1,900,000 (- 7%) • Turnover: 172 billion euro (+ 4%) • Investments: 5 billion euro (+ 10%)

  6. Employment in textile

  7. Employment in clothing

  8. Production in the world - 1

  9. Production in the world - 2

  10. Leather

  11. Employers’ Associations • Textiles and clothing: Euratex with SSD • Leather and tanning: Cotance (mainly tanners) with SSD • Footwear: CEC, with SSD on hold

  12. Outcomes of Social Dialogue • Formal SSD (among the first SSD’s) • Annual Work Programmes • 1-2 WG meetings + 1 Plenary • Joint statements • Code of conduct (in the year 2000) • Informal SSD • Joint approach vis-à-vis Commission (fashion industries, ESCO, …) • Joint projects (OIRA, Climate Change, Capacity building, Sectors Skills Council, …)

  13. Our view of the sector • Competitiveness • Pressure for lower costs and consumers prices • Asian market share keeps increasing, despite high transport costs • Collective agreements : challenge to reach inflation rates • Low wage increases, unions try to uphold purchasing power and employment

  14. Stärken und Schwächen

  15. Chancen und Gefahren

  16. Sector policy for the future – how to manage the risks? • Improve global competitiveness through innovation, creativity and design. Deliver high quality. • Future for technical textiles, applications in aerospace, automotive, medical, … • Attract young workers to the sector. Jobs vacancies are not filled in. • At least uphold the level of education in TCL • Prevent a further deterioration of image, both with regard to production and consumption • Create synergy between unions and employers associations at national level

  17. Technische Textilien machen Fahrzeuge leichter, effizienter, sicherer und erhöhen den Komfort Verbundtextilien mit Carbonfasern als Verstärkungskomponente (CFK) im Fahr- und Flugzeugbau. CFK verfügen im Vergleich zu Stahllegierungen über vierfach höhere Zugfestigkeiten – bei einem Viertel des Gewichts; Dimensionen ändern sich auch bei großen Temperaturunterschieden nur minimal! *1)

  18. Hochleistungs-Faserverbundtextilien für Flugzeugbau: Airbus A350: 50 % der Bauteile aus Verbundfaserwerkstoffen Weiterer Einsatz von Verbundswerkstoffen: Elektrotechnik Automobiltechnik Schiffahrtstechnik Architektur *1)

  19. Einsatz bei Bauprojekten Klimaverbesserung, Energieeinsparung + Energieerzeugung *1)

  20. Einsatz bei Bauprojekten Konstruktionen als mehrlagige pneumatisch gestützte Kissen in Dächern und Fassaden Teilsegmente oder ganze Flächen (bis zu ca. 4000 m2) *1)

  21. Einsatz in der Medizin- und Hygienetechnik OP-Bedarf Wundbehandlung Hygieneartikel *1)

  22. Einsatz im Brandschutz und Arbeitsschutz LEDs auf der Feuerwehruniform warnen vor Gefahr *1)

  23. Textile Nanotechnik • Schmutz- bzw. wasserabweisende und antibakterielle Textilien • Textilien, als Schutz vor UV-Strahlung • „Kosmeto“-Textilien (z. B. Damenstrumpfhosen) haben eingearbeiteten Nano-Kapseln mit speziellen pflegenden Wirkstoffen • kugelsichere Schutzwesten mit Kohlenstoffnanoröhrchen (CNT) • wärme-isolierende und feuchtigkeit-absorbierende Textilien aus der Natur: Lotusblatt Nano-Textilien: Rotwein dringt nicht ein *1)

  24. Einsatz als Körperschutz 100% Abschirmung von Elektrosmog Spezialtextilien sind dem kosmetischen Sonnenschutz weit überlegen High-Tech Textilien schützen vor Strahlungsquellen *1)

  25. Relevant EU and global initiatives • Directive on public procurement (proposal) • Product safety directive • Industrial emissions directive • EU memorandum against counterfeiting • EU working document on fashion industry • Free Trade Agreements • Intellectual property rights • The generalized system of preferences (GSP)(WTO) • Labeling of textiles

  26. The road ahead • Build on the positive elements in our sector • Broaden the skills councils network • Try to put TCL higher on European industrial policy agenda, “we are not the bad guys” • Improve contacts with EP • Implement common demand on prec’s work • Enforce TCL in Eucoban reporting system

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