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Chapter 22 – 12’. Hair Removal. Introduction. One of the fastest growing services Types Lip/brow Chin Arms Legs Bikini – art form of its own Brazilian. Men. Nape of neck Chest Back Most common forms in salons and spas. Men. Fashion trend hairless Legs, arms, chests Sports
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Chapter 22 – 12’ Hair Removal
Introduction • One of the fastest growing services • Types • Lip/brow • Chin • Arms • Legs • Bikini – art form of its own • Brazilian
Men • Nape of neck • Chest • Back • Most common forms in salons and spas
Men • Fashion trend hairless • Legs, arms, chests • Sports • Cycling, swimming, body building • Legs and arms, occasionally entire body
Hirsuties • Hypertrichosis • Growth of an unusual amount of hair on body parts normally bearing only downy hair • Faces of women • Backs of men
History of treatments • Early Egyptian tombs • Abrasive materials • Pumice stone – used to rub away hair • Ancient Greek & Roman women similar methods
Native Americans – • Sharpened stones and seashells • Rub off and pluck out hair • Ancient Turks – • used Rusma – a combination of yellow sulfide of arsenic, quicklime and rose water • crude depilatory (ex. Nair)
Two Major Categories • Permanent • Temporary • Most salons limited to this
Client Consultation • ALWAYS necessary • Questionnaire • Medications – topical/oral • Skin disorders • Allergies/sensitivities • changes can occur between visits
Medications - may not be able to receive services • Antidepressants • Hormones • Cortisone • Blood pressure • Diabetes • Retin A® • Renova • hydroquinone
Contraindication • Condition that requires avoiding certain treatments, procedures, or products to prevent undesirable side effects.
Contraindications for Hair Removal • Clients should not have ANY waxing or hair removal performed if anywhere on the body if they have any of the following without medical clearance • Accutane – 6 months • Blood thinning medications • Drugs for autoimmune disease including lupus • Psoriasis, eczema, other chronic skin disease
Prednisone or steroids • Sunburn • Presence of pustules or papules • Recent cosmetic/reconstructive surgery within 3 months • Laser treatment • Severe varicose veins • Questionable medical condition
Facial waxing should not be performed on any of the following conditions without medical clearance • Rosacea/very sensitive skin • History of fever blisters or cold sores • Recent chemical peel - glycolic, alpha hydroxy, salicylic acid or other acid based products • Recent microdermabrasion • Use of exfoliating topical medication • Laser skin treatment or surgical peel • Use of hydroquinone for skin lightening
Permanent Hair Removal • Electrolysis • Removal of hair by means of an electric current that destroys the growth cells of hair • Current is applied with a very fine needle-shaped electrode inserted into the hair follicle • License electrologist • http://hairremoval.about.com/od/electrolysis/a/Electrolysis101.htm
Photoepilation • Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) • Uses intense light to destroy the growth cells of the hair follicles • No needles – minimizes risk of infection • 50 % – 60% clearance of hair in 12 weeks
Administered by some cosmetologists/estheticians – depends on state law • Mfg. – generally provide special training • http://www.estheticon.com/video/photoepilation-2
Laser Hair Removal • Laser beam pulsed on skin, impairing growth • Most effective when used on follicles that are in the growth/anagen phase • Absolute requirement in that the hair must be darker than surrounding skin • Coarse, dark hair responds best to laser treatment
Not for everyone • Permanent hair removal for some clients • For others it slows down regrowth • Some states allowed under supervision of doctor • Requires special training • Offered by equipment mfg. • http://hairremoval.about.com/od/laser/a/laser101.htm • http://www.palomarmedical.com/treatments/hair-removal.aspx
Laws • Vary by state to state • Check state guidelines
Temporary Hair Removal • Shaving • Tweezing • Electronic Tweezers • Depilatories • Epilators • Threading • Sugaring
Shaving • Most common form • Men’s faces • Area softened by • applying warm moist towel • Shaving cream/lotion with lubrication and calms the skin • Electric clipper/trimmer - nape area • Apply pre-shaving lotion to lessen irritation • PP 693 – did you know?
Tweezing • Commonly used for eyebrows • Mouth and chin • Correctly shaped eyebrows have: • Strong, positive impact on overall attractiveness • Natural arch of eyebrow follows shape of orbital bone
Electronic Tweezers • Transmits radio frequency energy down shaft to follicle • Papilla dehydrated and eventually destroyed • Energy is applied first at low level to pre-warm and then up to 2 minutes • Not a method of permanent hair removal
Depilatories • Is a substance used for the temporary removal of superfluous hair by dissolving at the skin level • Caustic alkali product • Contains detergents to strip sebum (oil) • Adhesives to hold the chemicals to the shaft for 5 – 10 minutes • Hair expands and disulfide bonds break
Chemicals – to destroy the disulfide bonds • Sodium hydroxide • Potassium hydroxide • Thioglycolic acid • Calcium thioglycolate • Turn the hair into a soft jelly-like mass that can be scraped off
Requires a patch test – to see if sensitive to the action of the depilatory • Predisposition test • Allergy test • Hairless part of the arm • Apply small amount – mfg. directions • 7 – 10 minutes
Signs – negative reaction • No swelling • No redness • No rash • Can be used safely on larger of the skin • Follow mfg. directions • PP 694 – Focus on the Consultation • Table 22-1
Epilators • Removes hair from the bottom of the follicle • Common form - wax • Cold – • Thicker • Does not require fabric strips • Hot • Requires fabric strips • Test for temperature • 4- 6 weeks regrowth
Applied to various parts of the face & body • hair must be ¼” – ½” for waxing to be effective • Do not remove vellus hair – causes skin to lose softness • Client consultation • Sign release form – not valid in PA • Wear disposable gloves – prevent contact with bloodborne pathogens
Safety Precautions • Test temperature • No contact with eyes • Do not use over moles, warts, abrasions, irritated or inflamed skin • Under arm – cold wax • Apply aloe to redness and swelling reactions • Caution box 695
Threading • Practiced in Eastern cultures • The manipulation of cotton thread – • twisted and rolled along skin surface • Entwining hair in the thread and lifting from follicle • Increasing popularity in America – Florida • Requires special training
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gAK8im1ITk • Eyebrow Threading Tutorial. Learn how to thread eyebrows - YouTube
Sugaring • Use of thick, sugar-based paste • Appropriate for sensitive skin • Advantage is can be used on 1/8” • Sugaring - See the Sugaring Technique for Hair Removal Video
Procedures • Pre-service • Service Tip – PP697 • Tweezing - PP 701 • Here’s a Tip – PP 702
Hot Waxing eyebrows PP 703 • Here’s a Tip - PP 704 • Body waxing PP 705 • Here’s a Tip - PP 705 • Here’s a Tip - PP 706