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Natural Hair

Natural Hair. Natural hair is composed of 3 yellow 2 red 1 blue. Stages of Lift. Red Red Orange Orange Gold Yellow Pale Yellow. Formulation. To determine your level of color desired color x 2 minus your natural level equals your processing level Level above 10

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Natural Hair

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  1. Natural Hair Natural hair is composed of 3 yellow 2 red 1 blue

  2. Stages of Lift • Red • Red Orange • Orange • Gold • Yellow • Pale Yellow

  3. Formulation • To determine your level of color • desired color x 2 • minus your natural level • equals your processing level • Level above 10 • volume of peroxide • 10 - 20 - 30 - 40

  4. School of Thought • Color - lift and deposit • Color will not lift color • Level 1 • all deposit , no lift • Level 5 • approximately 1/2 lift & 1/2 deposit • Level 9 • mostly lift, with some deposit

  5. Factors to Consider • Condition of hair • Underlying pigment • warm or cool • undertones , dominant or underlying pigment • Desired color • deposit no lift • lift & deposit • mostly lift , some deposit

  6. Lift • Maximum lift • 20 vol. • 4 levels • over 4 levels • requires • bleach or HL series

  7. Peroxides • Developers - Oxidizer • Purpose • opens cuticle • allowing color into the cortex • oxidation • molecules enlarge • become trapped

  8. Strengths of Peroxide • 5 volume • has to be made • used in filler formulas • pretreating gray hair • safest volume to use on chemically relaxed hair

  9. Peroxide • 10 vol • deposit only • no lift • used on severely damaged hair • highest vol. for chemically relaxed hair • low lighting

  10. Peroxide • 20 vol • needed to open cuticle • average strength • lift & deposit • coloring hair same level • used to lift 1 to 2 levels

  11. Peroxide • 30 vol. • medium amount lift • 2 to 3 levels • 40 vol. • lift only • 3 to 4 levels • used w/ HL tints

  12. Info • Strand test • formulation • processing time • prevents corrective color / loss of $$$$ • Color lifts & deposits • oxidation • do not mix until ready for application

  13. Info • Sensitive scalp • add pink packet of sugar substitute • color or bleach • contains anti-inflammatory • Porosity • most important factor • determines level depth , strength , application , timing

  14. Info • Developer & color usually mixed in equal parts • 2 to 1 • double peroxide to color • Application • brush or bottle

  15. Info • Application begins • most resistant area • gray hair • hot spots

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