FASHION HISTORY 101

1. FASHION HISTORY 101 Choose one of the 3 assignments

2. Illustrated Notes

3. Instructions Illustrate the details highlighted in red using images from the Internet. Present the images in any format. • Use ONLY paintings and illustrations from the period, or photographs of the actual garments. Museum websites such as the Victoria and Albert (http://www.vam.ac.uk/page/f/fashion/) are particularly good. • Include the citation for each image • Label each photo with the period or year • Write a sentence or two about what the image demonstrates.

4. Ancient Egyptians • The King controlled everything, even clothes • Clothing style did not determine the position as much as the cloth that was used to make it. For example the pharaoh’s clothes were made from fine linen enriched with gold thread • Fabrics used were linen, cotton, wool and leather • Because of the heat clothing was roomy, – • Women’s clothes were characterized by a high waistline • man’s loin cloth • Shoes were for indoor wear only • Women used make-up to lighten their skin. Men used it to underline their eyes and enhance their eyebrows • Colors • Green – life, youth • Yellow – gold, flesh of the gods • Black – only in wigs • White – most common color, happiness

5. Ancient Greece • Clothes were basic and simple. Most originated from a rectangular piece of cloth. • Minimal sewing. Clothes were wrapped or draped • Chiton – tunic, wool rectangle draped over the body. Left arm was covered, right arm was not. The length determined status and use • Wool and linen were most common fabrics • Ancient Rome • Tunic with cloak over it – color, shape and decoration of these items denoted social status • Only citizens could wear toga’s, slaves could not • Because the empire was so vast there were a wide range of climates in the empire, this was the first time you see seasonal dressing

6. Byzantine • Only royalty could wear purple • Typical styles had heavy layers and long billowing tunics • These were worn by both sexes and made their shape indistinguishable • men wore pants • Domestically produced silk was introduced • Middle Ages • The major introduction from the East was using buttons to fasten clothing • Fashion was still not a consideration for most people. • Dress served a functional purpose or designated a rank or position. • Wool the most important fabric of the middle ages • Shoe toes were up to 18” long, a law set lengths to specified classes • Women’s clothes had a slightly protruding belly

7. The Renaissance • Velvet was first used • Clothes were regarded as an investment. Time was spent on upkeep and repair. • Detachable sleeves –affordable way to change the style of a garment (predated the modern custom of buying skirts and blouses – mix and match) • Fans and handkerchiefs – brought to the new world by Columbus when he went to China and the new world • Sumptuary laws (Poor people could not have handkerchiefs by law) • Fabric merchants were prominent citizens • The beauty of the fabric was appreciated. Rich fabric was left unadorned • Wool, linen and cotton were the main fabrics • England – wool • Germany/Ireland – linen • Spain/Italy – velvet, damask, brocade, satin

8. The Baroque Period • Europe (1600-1750) • Costume • Emergence of the new middle class accelerated the pace of fashion. The middle class had more money and adopted styles of the upper class. The upper class then sought new styles to distinguish themselves from the masses. • The silhouette became more natural, comfort and individual personality began to play a role. • En suite – unlike the mix and match of the 16th Century, many pieces from the same fabric and could be worn simultaneously • Women’s • Décolletage – plunging neckline • Men’s – • Cavalier • Persian style – 3 pc suit (coat, waistcoat and breeches). Formed the foundation of modern men’s formal attire • Textiles • Clothing for men’s/women’s/kid’s all from the same material • Textiles were appreciated for themselves

9. Eighteenth Century • Rococo – sumptuous style • Global textile trade thrived, ribbons, laces, ruffles, ruching, silk flowers • Forcing commoners (“the Third Estate”) to wear dark, dreary clothes was something that was a prompting factor in the French Revolution • Women – even lower class women were beginning to be able to be independent • Their Silhouette was based on panniers • Eventually their discomfort (and difficulty in movement) made them outmoded • Cul de Paris – a tiny pillow that accentuates the size of a women’s backside • The Revolution assisted fashion’s road to informality. Empire styles did away with clothes made of silk, velvet and brocade. It liberated women from corsets, panniers and tall powdered wigs • Austerity began to dominate women’s fashion. In the boutiques shops selling RTW opened. Fashion was now established by the wishes of the bourgeoisie not wanting to associate with the ancient regime • Men’s clothing • Waistcoat and breeches – decorative element of a man’s wardrobe, damask, satin or velvet, intricate embroidery, gold/silver buttons • Lace collared shirt (jabot) underneath, collar was tied like a scarf • Men wore corsets and jacket • Flared into a semicircle at the hips

10. Textiles • Mechanized inventions played a key role – cotton/wool manufacturing • Flying shuttle, knitting machines • 1793 – Cotton gin • Separated fiber from seed, made cotton big industry in the US, industry upon which American colonies were built. • Techniques for dying and printing also developed. • Other facts • Make up and grooming – washing was not common. Make up was worn to conceal dirty skin. Disguised body odor with perfume • Wigs – hair was powdered for men and women • Corset – status symbol because it prevented over exertion. It showed you were a member of the leisured class • Fashion magazines

11. Nineteenth Century • Clothing industry – previously called the “needle trade” • 1846 – sewing machine invented by Singer • Patterns next • Knitting machines • Department Store invented • Previously items were only available in small shops and stalls. Clothes that were kept in locked glass were now out in the open. They were in full view for the customer to look at and purchase. Browsing was encouraged to tempt impulse buys. • Bargaining (the market place practice) was replaced by fixed prices • Women • After domestic work, the textile industry was the highest employer of women. The conditions were hard; they worked 12 –14 hours a day, 6-7days a week. • The wages were so low women turned to prostitution • Women and children worked the same hours • Unsafe, unheated, unventilated and ill lit. • Men • Beau Brummell - the original dandy. Jettisoned all that was excessive • Ruffles, lace and white silk were replaced by superbly fitting sober clothes • Dandyism got men cleaner, plainer and more practical

12. 20th Century. • Liberalization – women’s position changed • Opening of the Eastern Block and China led to increased demand for Western Style and goods • Early 20th Century • Paul Poiret (1879 – 1944) • Thought the corset altered the silhouette so he developed the bra. • During shows he performed by standing on platform with a pair of scissors, a box of pins and a roll of material. He made a dress from that in minutes • Marie Vionett – did not sketch, used 2’ high models • She started using bias • Coco Chanel (1883 – 1971) • “Total look” versus shape. Individual items of clothing are not as important as what they are accessorized, worn with and how they are worn • New Look/Dior (1905 – 19570 • Curvaceous silhouette • Unstructured yet tailored clothes • Died suddenly in 1957 • 21 year old Yves St Laurent was elevated to designer in chief • He was fired 2 years later and replaced by John Gallaino • St. Laurent – genderless daytime pant suit • Pants on women became the rage • Fashion and pop music were used to demonstrate youthful dissatisfaction with the state of society (beat nick, hippies, punk, grunge)

13. 19th Century Dress Assignment • 1. Select a female character from a 19th century novel, and create a detailed sketch of her with strict historical accuracy. You will need to research the fashion of the period in order to complete this assignment. • The fashion can be either daytime or evening and must include all aspects of her appearance including hair, fabric, jewelry and all other accessories, dress silhouette, seaming, shoes or boots (and undergarments) if visible. • 2.Provide two historical proofs (images) to explain your costume choices and why they are appropriate. Your visual proofs must be from two different research sources (e.g., books on historical costume; if using Internet—ONLY museum collections).

14. Costume Drama • Watch a costume drama that features 19th century women’s fashions. Select three outfits from the movie and write a review of the historical accuracy of each of these costumes using accurate terms and vocabulary. • 2.Provide one historical proof (image) for each costume selected to explain help support your opinion on the historical accuracy of the fashion. Your visual proofs must be from at least two different research sources (e.g., books on historical costume; if using Internet—ONLY museum collections).