Hair conditioner Colloids CE 457/527 Juan Carlos Alva Nieto Ken-Tye Yong Anthony Rivers
What is hair conditioner? • To restore hair to its natural state • Undo damage by giving better look • Containing cationic surfactants in combination with long chain fatty alcohol and other lipid components. • leave the hair to be soft, shiny and manageable
Hair conditioner as consumer product Safety concern • Toxicity • Eyes injuries • Irritation to the skin Colorants • Visual appealing Preservation of consumer products • Microbial contamination • Spread of disease
Hair composition • Morphological • Cortex, • Cuticle, • Medulla. • Intercellular cement • Chemical • 19 proteins: • Cystine • Keratin • Glutamic acid. • Leucine, etc.
Interactions of surfactants and polymer with hair Three main types of interactions: • Primary valence bonds (ionic and covalent bonds) • Polar interactions (Hydrogen bonds) • Dispersion forces (van der waals attractions)
Emulsion Mixture liquid / liquid Surfactant / amphiphilic. “Water in oil” W/O or “Oil in Water” O/W. Water in Oil W/O Oil in Water O/W. Emulsions • Microemulsion • Spontaneous formation. • Thermod stability. • High solubilization capacity. • Clear appearance.
Microemulsions Liquid / liquid. Stability Second surfactant. Proteins, glucosoides, lipoids, sterols. Size bubble. Foams Liquid / gas. Micronic layer Microscopic bubbles. Stability Second surfactant. Viscosity / liquid. Proteins (Saponin, etc) Microemulsions and foams
Reconstructer • Water-based • Microemulsion • Foam. • Solubilized proteins and amino acids. • Rebuilding blocks, -hair components-. • Carry and deposit in the hair surface. • Benefits. • Flexibility. • Repair damage. • Reduction in splits ends.
Anionic emulsifiers Glycerol stearate 1.5 % Wt Cetyl alcohol 3 % Wt Lubricant additives Stearyl dimethicone 4 % Wt Humectants Glycerin 1.5 % Wt Propylene glycol 1.5 % Wt Preservatives Metyl paraben 0.30 % Wt Carrier Deionized water 87 % Wt Fragance Not established. Formulation • Hair conditioner composition
Hydrolyzed proteins Keratin, hydrogenated soy, yeast, wheat germ glycerides. Amino acids Cystine, aspartic acid, lauryl glutamate. Biological additives Casein, beer, eggs, nettle extract, etc. Other Vitamins B-12, Inositol, Paba, and Iron. Formulation • Reconstructer composition
Adsorption • How the reconstructer works? • Attachment of the hair conditioner – fundamental. • Adsorption is very important. (large species). • Low enough molecular weight proteins • Penetrate and reconstruct hair fibers.
Detanglers Objectives and purpose • Removes tangles from hair • Straighten curly and wavy hair • Able to last for a long period • Improve the texture of hair • Easier to comb • Imparts and glass like shine to hair
Ingredients used in detanglers De-ionized water (94.6 % wt) 1-hexadecanol (co-surfactant) (2.5 % wt) Glycerin (humectants) (0.5 % wt) Stearalkonium chloride (cationic surfactant) (1.5 % wt) Citrus acid (acidifiers) (0.4% wt) Colorants (0.2 % wt) Fragrance (oil) (0.3 % wt)
Functions of ingredients Stearalkonium chloride (Cationic surfactants) • Positively changed nitrogen atom • allowed the cationic group to attach negatively charged surfaces • Neutralized the electrostatic charges on the hair 1-hexadecanol (co-surfactant) • Act as solubilizers • To form better microemulsion • Thermodynamically stable system
Functions of ingredients Glycerin (humectants) • Attracted to water • Penetrate the cuticle • Stabilize the moisture content within the hair shaft • Soften and swell dry brittle hair Citrus acid (acidifiers) • Dissolve the soap residue on the hair • eliminate greasy, sticking feeling caused by dirt
Making procedure • Oil-in-water emulsion (O/W) • Dissolve water-soluble ingredients. • 60% water • Heat & Stirring. • Dissolve oil-soluble ingredients. • Heat / melt solids. • Keep stirring -10 / 15 min-. • Add the remained water. • Cool, add preservative and fragrance. • Adjust pH and viscosity.
Packaging reconstructers. • Bottle. • Used for the microemulsion. • Pump finger foamer. • Instant foaming action (foam). • Mixture liquid/air • No chemical propellant • PET • Easy to operate
Ingredients in Moisturizer • deionized water 79.03 % • hetoxide G-26 3.0 % • Methyl Paraben .15 % • disodium EDTA .10 % • Hest CSO 10.0 % • Hetol G 2.5 % • Hetol CA 1.5 % • Hetamid MA 1.0 %
Ingredients Continued • Glyceryl Stearate .70 % • Hetoxamate SA-100 .70 % • Cocoa Butter .50 % • Hest MS .50 % • Hetsorb L-20 .20 % • Propyl Paraben .05 % • Kathon CG .07 % • Glycerol - thickening agent
Colloidal Attributes • Thickness • Makes hair thicker, fuller looking • Ability to stay in hair • Some conditioners you can leave in all day • Stability
Design Considerations • Make hair soft/manageable • Gives it that shine • Make hairs all lay the same way • Makes hair look smooth • Seals cuticle layer • Prevents frizzing • Prevent split ends
Surfactants used in Moisturizer • Ability to form micelle • Hydrophobic and hydrophilic parts • Form cross link
Marketing Considerations • Labeling • Tells active ingredients • Commercials • Shows results of using product • Different needs for different hairs • Sum need more moisture • Some for dyed, color treated hairs
Packaging • Materials used • Post consumer recycled plastics • Make containers soft, squeezable