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KINE 199-Rock Climbing

KINE 199-Rock Climbing. Types of climbing. Indoor Top Rope vs. Lead Sport Traditional Bouldering Mountaineering/Ice Free vs. Aid. Indoor. In a “gym” Set routes Artificial Climb any time Routes change. Top Rope vs. Lead. Top rope

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KINE 199-Rock Climbing

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  1. KINE 199-Rock Climbing

  2. Types of climbing • Indoor • Top Rope vs. Lead • Sport • Traditional • Bouldering • Mountaineering/Ice • Free vs. Aid

  3. Indoor • In a “gym” • Set routes • Artificial • Climb any time • Routes change

  4. Top Rope vs. Lead • Top rope • A rope is hung from the top of the route and climber is belayed from the bottom • Lead • Lead climber places protection (traditional) or clips into bolts (sport) as he/she goes • Leader belayed from bottom and cleaner belayed from top

  5. Sport • Pre-placed routes – bolted • Know what to expect • Lead or top rope

  6. Traditional • Always lead climbing • Don’t know what to expect • Place protection (“pro”) as you go • Climbers MUST be experienced

  7. Bouldering • Climb on low rocks • Do not climb higher than you are willing to fall • Only requires shoes and chalk bag • Routes are called “problems” • Great practice! • Sport in itself

  8. Mountaineering/Ice Climbing • Cold • Remote places • Climb with axes and “aid” • Climbers MUST be experienced • Very gear intensive

  9. Free vs. Aid • Free climbing • Climbing with just your hands and feet • Ropes and pro used to keep climbers safe in a fall • Aid • Climbing with help of something other than rock (rope, ascender, stirrups, etc.) • Gear is essential

  10. Gear • Harness • Shoes • Ropes • Carabiners • Belay Device • Helmet • Protection

  11. Harness • Made of wide nylon webbing (usually padded) • Some are infinitely adjustable • Will last a few years, should be retired earlier if there is any question about its safety • $30-$90

  12. $40 $90

  13. Shoes • Many types • General purpose • Edging • Friction • Slippers • Cost $100-$150

  14. Ropes • Static • Rappelling • Rescue • Dynamic • 7-8% elongation • Kern-Mantle /Sheath and core • Standard: 50 meters x 10.5 mm • Tensil strength 8-9 kN (1800 lbs) • Care Cost: $95 - $210

  15. Caribiners • 3 shapes • Pear • Oval • D • Gates • Screw • Self-locking • Non-locking

  16. Belay Devices • Adds friction to the rope to slow it down or lock it off • Types • Stitch plate • Figure 8 • Elongated tube • Tuber – Lowe Alpine • Pyramid – Trango • ATC – Black Diamond • Gri Gri

  17. Protection • Used in traditional climbing • Climbers MUST have experience to use • Types (just a few) • Nuts • Cams • Pitons • Quick draw (sport climbing)

  18. Belay • Rule #1 Never take your brake hand off of the rope! • Many types of belaying • Commands

  19. Basic Principles • Climb with your feet • Look Around • Find positions of balance and relax • Use bone, not muscle • Use 3 points of contact

  20. Technique • Feet • Smear • Edge • Hands • Crimp or cling • Thumb stack • Open • Jam (outdoor) • Under cling

  21. Knots • Figure Eight on a bite • Figure eight follow-through • Bowline • Muenter • Daisy chain • Double fisherman • Water knot

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