1920’s

1. The twentieth century was known for distinctive “Decades of Style”, where styles, fashions and images reflect each of the decades. Select one of these decades and describe the images, influences, textiles and fashions of that time. Make reference to some of the key designers of the period and discuss the impact they have had. (24 marks)

2. The 1920's, probably the most daring decade for men and women alike, revolutionized the fashion world. With the arrival of the 'jazz age' and prohibition, women's skirts rose scandalously to the knees, the hair was cut short in a boyish bob, women shamelessly smoked and drank in public and defied the rigid social status that the early 1900's brought. 1920’s

3. The waist lines of the dresses dipped to the hips and braziers were worn to bind the breasts giving women a boyish look; a look that commanded power and equality with men. A look called 'The Flapper'. 1920’s

4. Men's fashion didn't change much in the twenties; if anything, it became more tapered. The trousers tapered down tightly at the ankles. Fedoras were a major fashion statement of the dashing man, and with the arrival of gangsters like Al Capone, pin-striped suits came into fashion. 1920’s

5. Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel The great fashion designer Gabrielle Chanel 1883-1971 self styled herself to be known as Coco Chanel.  By 1920 the silhouette of her clothing designs have come to be the epitome of 20's style.  The work of other famous designers beside hers seemed old fashioned and outmoded belonging as they did to the pre World War One era. She promoted the styles we associate with flappers. She worked in neutral tones of beige, sand, cream, navy and black in soft fluid jersey fabrics cut with simple shapes that did not require corsetry or waist definition.  They were clothes made for comfort and ease in wear making them revolutionary and quite modern.  She was the Jean Muir or Donna Karan of her day and the originator of the LBD - that little black dress. 1920’s: Fashion Designer

6. The 1930's came on full force with the arrival of the depression. With the majority of people poor and without work, no one had much money to spend on leisurely things like clothes and shoes. 1930’s

7. With women entering the work force, they donned a business suit, complete with tight skirts with a daring slit in the side or along the back seam. Jackets fit tightly with shoulder pads to accentuate the commanding force women needed to gain a steady hold in the work force full of men. 1930’s

8. Elsa Schiaparelli (September 10, 1890 – November 13, 1973) was an influential Italianfashion designer. Along with Coco Chanel, she dominated fashion between the two World Wars. Starting with knitwear, her designs were heavily influenced by Surrealists like her collaborator Salvador Dali. However unlike Chanel she never adapted to the changes in fashion after WWII and her business closed in 1954 1930’s: Fashion Designer

9. As the country recovered from a deep depression, World War II set in. The men went off to war leaving behind women, children and families to earn a living for their family and help the men at war by manufacturing war materials. 1940’s

10. The fashion for women was to be as conservative as possible so that extra material could be used to support the men at war. Dresses were made without cuffs, collars, buttons or extravagances. 1940’s

11. Men's suits, previously a four piece deal with vest, jacket, and two pairs of pants, turned into just a jacket and a pair of pants. The suits were usually broad shouldered with wide lapels, along with jackets sporting the double breasted look. Mixing and matching became stylish in this era. 1940’s

12. Christian Dior In February 1947, fashion designer Christian Dior showcased his new spring collection in Paris. After years of wartime austerity and continued shortages people wanted something more glamorous, feminine and graceful. Dior's spring collection featured narrow shoulders, a round bust, small waist, padded hips and a full long skirt reaching far below the knee for a long pencil skirt. The style was soon dubbed by fashion journalist as 'New Look' although in many ways it was highly reminiscent of the mid 19th century dress silhouette. 1940’s: Fashion Designer

13. With the fifties came teenage rebellion. Girls' dresses fluffed out with petticoats and crinolines worn under the skirt. The hair was ratted and flipped and white Keds tennis shoes or saddle shoes, were worn. Some rebellious women wore tight fitting, calf length pants called pedal pushers, with blouses. 1950’s

14. Boys fashion consisted of tight Levis, Chinos, white or black tight shirts; loafers or Converse shoes with leather jackets. The hair was slicked back with wing tips at the sides or curling in at the middle. James Dean made this look famous in "Rebel Without a Cause." 1950’s

15. Anne Whitney Fogarty designed the American look, creating clothes that were youthful, simple and stylish. Although Fogarty studied drama at the Carnegie Institute of Technology in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, her real love was for the costumes she wore. Moving to New York she worked as a fitting-model for Harvey Berin while looking for acting parts. When she received an acting job, Berin encouraged her to think about becoming a stylist instead, and in 1948 Fogarty began designing clothes for the Youth Guild. Youth Guild's market was teenagers, who were perfect for the narrow waist and full skirts of the "New Look," a style Fogarty used. 1950’s: Fashion Designer

16. With the arrival of the Vietnam war, the Beatles and Joan Baez, came 'flower children', or hippies. They defied the conformity of the 50's fashion code. Both girls and boys wore tight Levis bell-bottoms that flared wide at the knee; and decorations like patches, drawings and fabrics were added as well. 1960’s (Flower Power)

17. Men wore leather vests with bare chests or tee shirts. The women wore loose fitting blouses of cotton, frequently patterned with intricate designs as well as flowery loose dresses. These were called 'peasant blouses.' 1960’s (Flower Power)

18. 1960’s: Fashion Designer Mary QuantOBE (born 11 February1934 in Kent, England) is an Englishfashion designer, one of the many designers who took credit for inventing the miniskirt and hot pants. Born to Welsh parents, Quant studied illustration at Goldsmiths College before taking a job with a couturemilliner. She is also famed for her work on pop art in fashion

19. 1960’s:

20. The 1970's was the disco era. Disco wasn't just a type of music, but a way of life. The men still wore bell bottoms but the fabric of the decade was polyester, acrylic and lycra. Women's dresses were ruffley and loose, usually stopping at the knee. The men wore bell bottoms, a jacket under a solid colour shirt with gold chains. Platform shoes were big on the dance floor and shirt patterns were swirly and dizzying. The colours were loud and clashing making a statement that the 70's was the era of 'Saturday Night Fever’. 1970’s:

21. Dame Vivienne Westwood, DBE, RDI, (born 8 April1941) is an Englishfashion designer largely responsible for bringing modern punk and new wave fashions into the mainstream[1]. She is linked with the Sex Pistols via Malcolm McLaren and their SEX boutique on Kings Road, Chelsea in London during the 1970s. The shop was at 430 Kings Road 1970’s: Fashion designer

22. The punk style began to gain notoriety when the Sex Pistols wore clothes from Westwood and McLaren's shop at their first gig. The "punk style" included, safety pins, razor blades, bicycle or lavatory chains on clothing and spiked dog collars that were used as jewellery, as well as outrageous make-up and hair. The inclusion of more traditional elements of British design, such as tartan fabric, amongst the more unusual elements of her style only served to make the overall effect of her designs more shocking. Together, Westwood and McLaren worked to revolutionise fashion, and the impact is still felt today. She has only a few exclusive shops, including three in London, two in Manchester, and one each in Liverpool, Newcastle and Leeds. A ninth opened in FH Mall, Nottingham on 20th March 2008. Westwood worked historical factors into her collection by using historical 17th-18th century original cutting principles and modernising them. Her latest collection was about 'gold and treasure, adventure and exploration'. 1970’s: Punk

23. The 1980's brought two very different styles in. One style ruled the business world especially with the women. Women's business suits had broader shoulders, with the help of shoulder pads, the suits resembled those of the 30's except with much brighter colours like yellows, blues and pinks. 1980’s

24. The second fashion fad started with exercise. Exercise became a big deal in the 80's and exercise clothes became bright and worn casually. Lycra and spandex was a big material used, usually coloured in brilliant greens and pinks. 1980’s:

25. Calvin Richard Klein (born November 19, 1942) is an Americanfashion designer. In 1968, he launched the company that would later become Calvin Klein Inc. In addition to clothing, Calvin Klein also gave his name to a range of perfumes, including and (fragrances for both genders), now owned by Coty Inc.Swatch Group manufactures watches and jewelry under the Calvin Klein and Calvin Klein Jeans brands 1980’s: Fashion Designer

26. The platform shoe came back and showed up in many shoes from sandals to tennis shoes. The colour scheme of the 90's was dramatic or pastel. The classic colour is black, used for dramatic effects in fashion. 1990’s:

27. Since its inception in 1985, the striking and sensual style of Herve Leger has attracted an international clientele consisting of the world's most beautiful and fashionable women. Hollywood stars including Sharon Stone, Lindsay Lohan, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Charlize Theron, Beyonce Knowles, Christina Aguilera, Janet Jackson, Eva Mendes, Nicole Richie, Jessica Simpson, Eva Longoria and Jessica Biel, to name a few, have become some of the label's most devoted fans - forever linking the Herve Leger name with the glitz and glamour of Hollywood. 1990’s: Fashion Designer

28. The twentieth century was known for distinctive “Decades of Style”, where styles, fashions and images reflect each of the decades. Select one of these decades and describe the images, influences, textiles and fashions of that time. Make reference to some of the key designers of the period and discuss the impact they have had. (24 marks)