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The Yakut National Clothes. Made by Lyuba Tarasova.
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The Yakut National Clothes. Made by Lyuba Tarasova.
All life of Yakuts has been closely connected with surrounding nature, all: both meal, and clothes, and instruments of labor they extracted at it. Therefore, on their concepts, of this boundless Universe of the main the Nature, then deities and only then — the Person was. Here this outlook, the feelings and dreams were embodied by our ancestors in patterns, ornaments and house utensils. Therefore people clothess Sakha as the part of material culture, was inseparably linked with its beliefs, ceremonies, the nature, deities. The Yakut clothes on time and on change of a way of life can be divided on two groups: • 1. Traditional Yakut clothes (to the XVIII-th century middle). It is the period of blossoming of national culture. A bycicle communication of clothes with religion: horned headdresses, fur coats with an eagle, a sleeveless jacket “Tangalai” etc. were usually applied To an ornament blue, white and black beads, patterns „Ynakh" ("cow"), „Juraa" ("strips") and lyre-shaped motives, copper ornaments. • 2. From the middle of a XVIII-th century before the XX-th century the national clothes undergo the big changes owing to development of contacts, trade with other people. There are elements of the European clothes: a collar, a pocket, falbores, puffsand cuffs. But still traditional communication of clothes with belief remains. • The clothes of ancestors can be divided and on purely functional application: • • the ritual clothes closely connected with religion, (kumiss drinking, wedding ceremonies, a seeing-off of Ajyyhyt, the Sun meeting, the shamanistic ritual, etc.); • • warm clothes for distant trips; • • hunting, working clothes; • • house clothes without any ornaments. • From them a fur coat with an eagle, horned headdresses, high fur caps, caps with ear-flaps, fur collars, female and man's outer clothing - a coat meet seldom, as museum pieces. • The fur coat with an eagle is the oldest coat. • On R.K.Maaka and V.L.Seroshevsky's materials is called “Sangyiakh”. At Yakuts, as well as at many people, has been extended that
The fur coat with an eagle is the oldest coat. • On R.K.Maaka and V.L.Seroshevsky's materials is called “Sangyiakh”. At Yakuts, as well as at many people, has been extended a totemism - an idolization of animals. So, at ours at ancestors the bear, a wolf, a horse, a raven, a lion, a swan, an eagle etc. were considered as the sacred. The eagle was esteemed as a mascot souls of the Person and named it not an eagle, and is allegoric - the Toyon-animal, the Big Animal or the Winged Animal. Didn't ruin its nest, didn't kill from fear of punishment. Men at a meeting with an eagle should fall to the ground, having shut the face with the hands, and women have been obliged to dress a sleeveless jacket “Tangalai”. V.L.Seroshevsky writes: „Ajyy Toyon from height of the throne beholds the Universe, the eagle dozes at his feet..." Therefore, ”Sangyiakh” with an eagle put on young at a wedding ceremony, as protection as a hobby. This fur coat was put on for the shamanistic ritual by the shaman.
Then the coat - tangalaj (a single-breasted fur coat like a kaftan) with lyre-shaped motives extends. Their names are “Keejii” , “Kejinge”, ”Kejike”, “Tangalai”. These clothes are connected with a swan cult. The married woman dressed her only. If the bride left in distant uluus (region) to the groom, according to the superstitions, it should leave through everyone nine lives - stops to Spirit of district “Tangalai” a dream to avoid any troubles on road ". • These clothes were applied and as funeral., passed a thorny road from a mouth of the Big Dragon to its tail entirely covered with sharp iron thorns. Therefore the funeral clothes should be strong. For this purpose Tangalai a dream in front and behind decorated copper and silver metal plates, beads. • “Buuktaakh” coat is a fur coat with a fur edging. • This furred dream was sewed from red, black and green cloth or color brocade. On a breast the ornament-mascot, on each side - hipline ornaments settled down. A back the pattern like “Serge” (tethering post) decorated. Probably, this worship of Jehegej Ayuyy - to the patron giving not only light of the Sun, but also force, power, will. Therefore during a holiday “Yhyakh” after Yurung Aar Toyona Jehegej Ayuu worshipped.
“Jabaka” - a headdress. It has versions: “Khorookh”, “Tamaakh”, “Khaan”, “Sirey”, “Kues Jabaka”. Headdresses also are closely connected with ritual ceremonies, as a birth of the child, worship of Bayanayu — to the Owner of a taiga, with hunting (ritual before animal killing). Our ancestors thought much of a headdress and knowingly sang of it in Olonkho (the epic legend): Egej-uguj let will be! Planned by the best forefinger, Embroidered with skillful fingers, Sewed wonderful hands, Entered into the legend as an ornament Wives of knjaztsov-foremen, Bloody, sinful, Bright Jabaka-cap... S.A.Zverev. „A song about a cap" In headdresses the part of soul of the person is concealed, therefore ornaments (“Tuohakhta” - a round silver plate, roof-shaped, horns, lyre-shaped a pattern) connected the person with the Higher Deities. Theft and damage of headdresses were equated to the big sin.
