Fruit Tree Growing Tips: Pear, Cherry, Apple Planting Guide

1. Pomes, Nuts and Berries, Oh My! September 17, 2013 The Morton Arboretum Community Trees Program Andrea Dierich Presentation was made possible by the Illinois Extension Service

2. Step 1: Determining if Fruit Trees Are Right for You Maintenance Level: • Low (water, weed & mulch) -Medium (some pruning and pest management) -High (pruning and dedicated pest management)

3. Species that Fit Your Style Low: figs, mulberry, most nut trees, paw-paw, persimmon, serviceberry Medium: tart cherries, pears, plums High: apples peaches, some pears

4. General Information • -Winter is a limiting factor in growing some fruit • Bare-root or container recommended for planting • Best planted when small • Dedicated fall and spring care

5. Other Considerations & Determining Factors • Space • Sunlight • Soil • Moisture & Drainage • Pollination • Pests & Diseases

6. Site Selection -full sun (8-10 hours)

7. Site Selection -fertile, well drained soil

8. Site Selection -good air drainage

9. Site Selection -protection from summer wind

10. Soil Type Slightly Acidic - Neutral • Paw-Paws • Serviceberries • Persimmon • Pears • Cherries • Hazelnut Neutral – Alkaline • Apples • Pecans • Walnut • Chinese Chestnuts

11. Planting Time: spring, usually around April Spacing: varies depending on the species and effect desired • Handling bare-root stock: • keep roots damp • plant as soon as possible • root prune with care

12. Planting • Proper planting: • dig large enough hole • spread roots, cut off bad ones • plant at proper depth* • keep soil moist • do not fertilize for the first year!

13. Planting Remove at planting time: -dead limbs -weak limbs -crossing limbs -water sprouts -root suckers

14. Planting Trees on seedling rootstock: plant 2 inches deeper than they were planted in the nursery (for stability) Trees on dwarfing rootstock: graft or bud union should be about 3” above the soil level

15. Tree Size Standard (grafted on seedling rootstock) -full size, large trees *Nut trees generally are standard size.* Semi-Dwarf and Dwarf -variable in size -ask about the mature height

16. Purchasing Tree Stock Homework into nurseries and suitable tree species will be required. • Buy container or bare-root • Ensure immediate planting or care will be available when stock arrives • If container tree remove top layer of soil until first root is visible • May species will require at least a second tree to be purchased…

17. Fruitfulness/Pollination Self-pollination vs. Cross Pollination

18. Fruitfulness/Pollination • Self- unfruitful: • Most apples • Pears • Paw-Paws • Japanese plum • Chinese chestnuts • Self-fruitful: • Peach • Tart Cherries • Hazelnuts

19. Fruitfulness/Pollination • Partially Self-fruitful: • Apricots • European plums • Walnut • Pecan

20. Young Trees Help a tree to establish and strengthen before fruit production! Mulch soil Adequate water Limb train Prune Fertilize in the late summer (2nd yr)

21. Care of Young (Non-bearing)Trees Prevent premature bearing: -remove all fruit the first 2 seasons -after that allow light to moderate crops -do not allow a heavy fruit load on central leader

22. Branch spreading in a young tree using toothpicks. Branch spreading in a older tree using wood stakes. Well trained trees!

23. Care of Young (Non-bearing)Trees Bringing young trees into bearing -reduce N fertilization -tie or spread branches

24. Pest Control • Organic deterrent (1 part Tabasco – 5 parts H2O) • Bordeaux mixture • Stem wrapping + hardwire

25. Bearing Trees: Spring Care Fertilize properly: -early spring at bud-swell -start 1’ out from trunk and go to drip-line Spring pruning Aid pollination if needed (paw-paw) Protect buds and immature fruit from fungal and tissue diseases.

26. Bearing Trees: Fall Care • Sanitation!!!!!! Remove all debris; including leaf litter, and fruit. • Water, water, water • Mulch • Identify branches to prune in the late winter • Wrap bark of young trees

27. Bearing Trees ‘Winter’ injury Fluctuating day/night temperatures frost cracking Spring frost cover tree to the ground

28. Bearing Trees: Fruit Thinning Why do it? Excess fruit will -reduce fruit size -retard development of next year’s buds -increase risk of branch breakage

29. Bearing Trees: Fruit Thinning When to do it? -Late May, early June How? -nature (June drop) -by hand -a little shake Consider the spacing between fruit as well!

30. Why Prune? 1. Improve quality and size of fruit 2. Develop a strong tree 3. Facilitate culture and harvest 4. Manage size and shape of the tree

31. Pruning Fruit Trees: Training Systems Open Center commonly used for stone fruit trees Central Leader commonly used for apples, pears, cherries and some plums

32. Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center -single trunk, 18-30 inches high -2, 3 or 4 scaffold branches, all close together near top of tree -crotch angles 40-90 degrees

33. Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center

34. Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center

35. Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center

36. Pruning Fruit Trees: Open Center

37. Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader -one main trunk, 5-8 feet tall -lowest branch 18-22 inches from ground (not on SW side) -5-12 scaffolds, spaced 4-8 inches apart vertically on trunk; or clustered 18-24 inches apart (upper ones shorter) -crotch angles 40-90 degrees

38. Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader

39. Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader

40. Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader

41. Pruning Fruit Trees: Central Leader

43. Thank you! Andrea Dierich ADierich@mortonarb.org