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Legend Swimwear Factory Limited

Legend Swimwear Factory Limited. Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung. Content (2 hours). Introduction of Product Evaluation Scope of Product evaluation Specifications of Swimwear Fabrics Fabric testing Fabric Construction Physical Properties Colorfastness Properties. Scope of Evaluation.

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Legend Swimwear Factory Limited

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  1. Legend Swimwear Factory Limited Product Evaluation Dr. M.Y. Leung

  2. Content (2 hours) • Introduction of Product Evaluation • Scope of Product evaluation • Specifications of Swimwear Fabrics • Fabric testing • Fabric Construction • Physical Properties • Colorfastness Properties

  3. Scope of Evaluation Labeling checking Performance Testing Product Inspection Matching Pattern Workmanship checking Blind-stitched hem

  4. Performance Quality of Textile Products

  5. Performance Tests for Swimwear??What suggestion for Care Label??

  6. Swimwear fabrics • Knits specializing on stretchable & functional knits

  7. Swimwear Fabrics • Pigment print, pigment discharge print, rubber print, burn-out print, puff print Exit Back to Overall

  8. Products Stretch woven fabrics with Embroidery Exit Back to Overall

  9. Care-label for Swimwear • Wash in warm water (40°C) • Do not bleach • Do not iron • Do not dry-clean/ No dry-clean • Do not tumble dry/ Flat dry/ Hang dry

  10. Specification and Standard • Throughout the world there are numerous organizations to develop standard test methods and regulations to control the performance quality of textile. • Uniformity of standards are with a growing need. • International standards to alleviate some of the problems faced by manufacturers that export or import from foreign manufacturers are necessary.

  11. Sources of Standards Product Spec Company Standard National Standards International Standards

  12. International Standards • International Used Standards: • The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) • British Standards (BS) • American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) • Japanese Industrial Standards (JIS) • European Committee for Standardization (CEN)

  13. What are the specifications for Swimwear? Are there any difference between swimwear and other knitted and woven fabrics? What make the difference?

  14. Specification for Knitted and Woven Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)

  15. Specification for Knitted and Woven Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)

  16. Specification for Knitted Swimwear (ASTM D 3996)

  17. Specification for Knitted and Woven Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)

  18. Buyer’s Specification for Knitted Swimwear

  19. What are the different between testing swimwear/fabrics and commercial apparel fabrics?

  20. Fabric with Stretch • Most fabrics used for swimwear are elastic • By insertion of Spandex/ Lycra etc. • All elastic yarns are covered with a layers of fibres/ filaments • Two ways of covering: air-jet and wrapping

  21. Fabric Analysis • Standard Conditions: • Pre-conditioned: • Stored the specimen in chamber with • Temperature < 50°C • Relative humidity: 10 to 25 % • Conditioned: • BS: 20±2°C and RH% 65±2% • ASTM: 21±1°C and RH% 65±2% • What types of tests are required to carry out in controlled condition?

  22. Fabric Analysis • Standard Conditions: • Pre-conditioned: • Conditioned: • BS: 20±2°C and RH% 65±2% • ASTM: 21±1°C and RH% 65±2% • What types of tests are required to carry out in controlled condition?

  23. Tensile Strength • For fabric with stretch < 11% • To obtain the breaking load and elongation at break of a textile fabric • Grab test: 1-inch grab (ASTM D 5034, JIS L 1096, ISO 13934-2:99) • Strip test: 2-inch strip test (ASTM D5035, JIS L 1096, ISO 13934-1) clamp 200 mm 3 inches Grab Test Strip Test clamp

  24. Tensile Strength Load and Elongation Curve

  25. Tearing Strength • Tearing strength refers to the force required to break a group of yarns (max. up to 3 pieces) together by tearing off the fabric. • There are various types of tearing depends on application.

  26. Tearing Strength • Elmendorf • Only for warp-direction of warp knit and woven • ASTM D1424-96 • JIS L 1096 • Tongue Tear • Single rip • ASTM D 2261-96 • JIS L 1096

  27. Elmendorf Tearing Strength • Criteria: • The tearing strength must be within 80% of the centre capacity. • What happen if the tearing load is at the 95% of the max loading? Release the weight to tear off the fabric

  28. Bursting Strength (most common for knitted fabrics) • Bursting is radial or multi-directional breaking strength. • There are two types of bursting strength: ball bursting and hydraulic bursting. • Multi-directional force from a steel ball is push up the fabric held in flat until rupture. • Multi-directional force from pressure of an inflated diaphragm is applied on fabric until rupture.

  29. Bursting Strength

  30. Bursting Strength • Diaphragm bursting • For knitted swimwear or woven swimwear with stretch > 20% • ISO 13938-1:99/BS 4768, ASTM D 3786-87 • Ballistic ball bursting • For high strength fabric or high stretch fabric • ASTM D 3787-80

  31. Bursting Strength • Radial extension • Hydraulic diaphragm bursting • Bursting pressure = P(f+d) - P(d)

  32. Fabric Stretch • Stretched the fabric in defined load/ length • Keep the stretched fabric for defined time • Measure the change of L L

  33. Fabric Stretch and Growth Stretch = (L2 – L1) x 100% L1 L2: extended length under load L1: original length L2 L1

  34. Fabric Stretch and Growth Growth = (L3 – L1) x 100% L1 L3: extended length after released L1: original length L3 L1

  35. Dimensional Changes of Fabric after Home Laundering

  36. Dimensional Stability • Maintenance of the shape and dimensions of a textile product can be a significant factor in its acceptance by consumers. • Terminology: • “Refurbishing” is used to describe any of a number of process that textiles may undergo to remove soil and stains and to restore the appearance of the items. • Two most common refurbishing methods are “laundering” and “dry-cleaning”.

  37. Dimensional Stability • Refurbishing • A) Laundering • It is based on the use of water as a solvent • Water is effective in dissolving water-based spots and stains • Detergents are laundering aids used to enhance cleaning • B) Dry-cleaning • It requires the use of organic solvents to dissolve oily soils and stains, such as body oils, waxes, fats and makeup • Because only a minimal amount of water is used, fibres do not swell significantly and therefore, do not shrink as much.

  38. Dimensional Stability • Dimensional stability refers to a fabric’s ability to resist a change in its dimensions. • A fabric or garment may exhibit shrinkage or growth under conditions of refurbishing. • Items are especially affected by the moisture and heat used in washing, tumble drying, and in steaming and pressing. • There are various ways that need to shrinkage occur when textiles are subjected to heat and/or moisture.

  39. What are the causes of Dimensional Instability? • Relaxation Shrinkage: • Results of relaxation of stress of fabric • Progressive Shrinkage • Dimensional change that continues through successive washing • Growth • Shrinks in length results grow in width • Yarn Reduction/ Thermal shrinkage • It occurs in thermoplastic fibres. • Upon imposition of heat, fabrics/polymer molecules move more randomly, nonlinear form and thus decrease the length

  40. Relaxation Shrinkage • Dry state: Yarns are stretched and temporarily set. • Release of strains • Energy released • Irreversible • Need several washings to min & stable energy level.

  41. Causes of stretching (Woven) • Warping • Weaving • Wet-finishing, dyeing printing etc.

  42. Causes of Extension (Knitted) • Take-down tension of the knitting m/c • Sewing or spreading of the knitted goods

  43. Fibre Level: Progressive Progressive Shrinkage • Fibre Swelling • Fibre movement within the textile structure What causes progressive shrinkage more serious? • Alkaline medium • Higher temperature • Greater freedom of movement.

  44. How does fibre swelling would lead to fabric shrinkage? • Fibre swelling Yarn swelling • Balance of force • If so, how to solve the problem of shrinkage due to fibre swelling?

  45. Contraction of Yarn • Decrease in length of yarn • Normally by heat/ high temperature • Synthetic filament is most sensitive • How to reduce the shrinkage situation?

  46. Dimensional Stability Shrinkage Measurement • BS 5807/ BS 4923 • AATCC 135 (fabric) • AATCC 61 (garment) • Report on 1st and last washes • Benchmarks the length of 50cm or 25cm apart for both warp and weft directions • Measure the dimension of products after treatment Shrinkage % = Original - after wash x 100% Original length Growth is positive Shrinkage is negative

  47. Dimensional Instability Results Interpretation • For apparel products, the required maximum shrinkage or growth usually are dependent on types of products. • For woven fabrics: usually maximum shrinkage after laundering is 2.0 to 3.0% • For knitted fabrics: allowance for shrinkage is higher, usually 5.0% • For stretch fabric: allowance for shrinkage will be higher.

  48. Colorfastness AATCC Definition of Colorfastness • Resistance of a material to any change in any of its color characteristics, • Transfer of its colorants to adjacent, or both • after exposure to any environment

  49. Frosting Bleeding Fading Yellowing Crocking Color leaves the surface of fabric due to abrasion. (Detaches) Migration of color from wet fabric into water and then to others. Lightening of color due to loss or breakdown of dye. The change of color base to a very yellow version of a color. Transfer of a color to another surface through rubbing Color Loss during daily uses

  50. Bleeding piping 50

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