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Learn how to use darts to control fullness and shape in fitted clothes. Discover the step-by-step process of marking, sewing, and pressing darts for a professional finish.
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Get to the Point! Using Darts to Control Fullness in Apparel
Darts • Darts are triangular folds of fabric used to control fullness and give shape to fitted clothes. • Darts are either single or double pointed.
Marking Darts • Darts should be marked on the wrong side of the fabric. • Mark the end of a dart with a short, horizontal line • Mark dots with an “x”
Use a ruler to keep lines straight • Guide a tracing wheel over each line only once
C. Sewing Darts • There are 4 basic steps: • Fold dart, right sides together and match stitching lines exactly
Stitch to the point. The last 2 or 3 stitches should be as close to the fold as possible. Don’t backstitch. • Remove from the machine & tie thread ends.
For double pointed darts: • Fold and match as for a single pointed dart • Start at the center and stitch to each point • Because a double pointed dart is like an inside curve, it must be clipped, then slashed open.
D. Pressing Darts • Remove marking lines before you press! • To properly press a dart, use a pressing ham. • Vertical darts should be pressed with the fold toward the center.
Horizontal darts should be pressed with the fold toward the waistline.
Quick Review • What is a dart? • Why is a dart used? • Once stitching is complete, what do you do at the pointed end of a dart? • What must be done to a double pointed dart before it is pressed?
Why are tracing or marking lines removed before pressing? • Darts should be pressed over a… • Vertical darts should be pressed toward… • Horizontal darts should be pressed toward...