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Fabric barre

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Fabric barre

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  1. Fabric Sample

  2. Fabric Barré CAUSE % of DEFECTS Fiber 70% Yarn Count Variation 10% Twist Variation 10% Hairiness 10%

  3. Fabric Barré due to 1. Micronaire 2. Maturity/Fineness 3. Fluorescence

  4. Micronaire Causes of Barré : • > 0.2 Difference in micronaire • > 0.1 Change in average micronaire mix to mix • > 12% CV of Micronaire within mix • Bales with same micronaire placed side by side in mix

  5. Acceptable Change in Micronaire from Mix to Mix Micronaire 4.5 Maximum ± .1 4.4 4.3 4.2 4.1 4.0 3.9 3.8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Mix Number

  6. High Micronaire CV% in Mix Micronaire 4.7 Aug. 4.1 CV% 17.7* 4.6 4.5 4.4 4.3 4.2 4.0 3.9 3.8 3.7 3.6 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 Bale Number * Maximum CV 12%

  7. Maturity & Fineness Causes of Barré • Blending cottons from different growth areas • Blending cottons from different seed varieties • Seasonal changes in cotton growth cycle – Weather – Insects • Immature Fiber Content% (IFC%) – White Speck Neps – Carding Speeds

  8. Knitted Fabric Sample: 3 Varieties, Same Mic, Same Growing Area 3 Varieties, Same Mic, Same Growing Area 3 3 2 2 1 1 Bale Number

  9. HVI Bale Data: Length & Micronaire Analysis Micronaire & Length (in) Strength (g/tex) 5 35 30 4 25 3 20 15 2 10 1 5 0 0 Bale 1 Bale 2 Bale 3 Micronaire Length Strength

  10. Uster Yarn Data (Ne 26) Elongation (%) Strength (grams) 600 7 6 500 5 400 4 300 3 200 2 100 1 0 0 Bale 1 Bale 2 Bale 3 Strength Elongation

  11. AFIS Maturity Module: Maturity Analysis FIneness (mtex) Immature Fiber Content (%) 14 200 180 12 160 10 140 120 8 100 6 80 60 4 40 2 20 0 0 Bale 1 Bale 2 Bale 3 Immature Fiber Content Fineness

  12. White Speck Neps Fabric A Fabric A Fabric B Fabric B Fabric C Fabric C

  13. Fabric White Speck Defects: AFIS Maturity Module Maturity Ratio Immature Fiber Content (%) 16 1 0.9 14 0.8 12 0.7 10 0.6 8 0.5 0.4 6 0.3 4 0.2 2 0.1 0 0 Fabric A Fabric B Fabric C Immature Fiber Content Maturity Ratio

  14. Card Mat & Sliver Variation: AFIS Maturity Analysis Immature Fiber Content (%) 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 Card 7 Card 8 Card 9 Card 11 Card 12 Card 13 Card Mat Sliver

  15. Variation in Card Sliver: AFIS Maturity Module Immature FIber Content (%) 15 10 5 0 Card 1 Card 19 Card 25 Card 35 Card 49 Card 51

  16. Fluorescence Causes of Barré • Variation in average UV readings between bale mixes • CV% in UV readings within a mix • End-of-season cotton crop changes • Outside storage of cotton bales • Mixing high and low UV bales • UV readings increase over time in warehouse

  17. Fluorescence Solutions • UV test every bale before making mix • Maximum 10 points difference of UV readings within mix • Maximum change in UV average 1 point between mixes • Set up category groups for UV

  18. Variation of Bale UV Within Mix UV 100 Average 80 Max ±5 95 90 85 80 75 70 65 0 4 8 12 16 20 24 Bale Number

  19. Variations in Average UV from Mix to Mix UV 85 Maximum Change ±1 in Average 84 83 82 81 80 79 78 77 76 75 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Mix Number

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