Clothing Management

Clothing Management Unit 4 Clothing/Project Construction Tonja Bolding Lakeside High School

Unit 4 terms 1. alterations—modifications made to a pattern or garment for a better fit 2. backstitching—stitching forward then using the reverse to stitch backwards over the same stitches to secure the beginning or end of a seam 3. basting—a temporary method of joining fabric, usually by using large, easily removable stitches 4. bias—grain that runs diagonally and allows the greatest amount of stretch in a woven fabric 5. casing—a closed tunnel of fabric that holds a piece of elastic or a drawstring inside 6. crosswise grain —grain that runs across the fabric from one selvage to the other 7. dart— a triangular fold of fabric stitched to a point to control fullness and shape in a garment 8. directional stitching —stitching with, or in the same direction, as the fabric grain 9. easing—joining two edges of fabric together when one edge is slightly larger than the other

10. facing—used to finish a raw edge, such as an armhole or neckline 11. gathering—soft folds of fabric formed by pulling up basting stitches 12. grade—to trim each layer of fabric to a different width to reduce bulk 13. grain of fabric-the direction in which the thread runs in a fabric 14. guide sheet —step-by-step information for cutting, marking, and sewing a pattern 15. hem—a finished edge on a garment 16. interfacing—a piece of fabric placed between the outer fabric and facing to prevent stretching and add shape 17. layout—a diagram included in sewing instructions that shows how to place the pattern pieces on fabric 18. lengthwise grain —grain that runs the same direction as the selvage 19. notions —small items that become a permanent part of the garment

20. pattern—all the instructions needed to construct a project 21. pattern markings —lines and symbols marked on the pattern and transferred to the fabric to help guide construction 22. seam—line of stitching that holds layers of fabric together 23. seam allowance —width between the fabric edge and seam line 24. seam finish —treatment of seam edges to prevent raveling 25. selvage—the factory-finished edge of a fabric 26. staystitching—a row of machine stitches through one layer of fabric to prevent stretching 27. topstitching—a row of stitching done on the outside of a garment 28. understitching—a row of stitching used to keep the facing or bottom layer of fabric rolled out of sight

4.1 State guidelines for pattern selection • Determine your figure type. • Girl’s • Girl’s plus • Misses’ • Miss petite • Determine your size. • Take bust or chest, waist and hip or seat measurements. • Pattern sizes may or may not correspond to ready-to-wear sizes. • Select a pattern (all the instructions needed to construct a project) that fits. • Multi-sized patterns will be a good choice if you fall between sizes • Women’s • Women’s petite • Boys/teen-boys’ • Men’s

4.2 Identify information found on a pattern envelope • brand or company name • pattern number • figure type • size • price • sketch and sometimes a photo of the garment • number of pieces • notions • garment description • list of suggested fabrics and amount to purchase • body measurements for selecting correct size

4.3 Identify information found on a pattern guide sheet (step-by-step information for cutting, marking, and sewing a pattern) • line drawings of all pattern pieces • cutting layout • explanation of markings • general instructions • step by step instructions

4.4 Name pattern markings (lines and symbols marked on the pattern and transferred to the fabric to help guide construction) • cutting line • seam allowance(width between the fabric edge and seam line) • stitching line • seam (line of stitching that holds layers of fabric together) • grainline • crosswise grain (grain that runs across the fabric from one selvage to the other) • lengthwise grain (grain that runs the same direction as the selvage) • notch • dot • buttonhole placement • center front • dart (a triangular fold of fabric stitched to a point to control fullness and shape in a garment

4.5 State techniques for making pattern alterations (modifications made to a pattern or garment for a better fit) • The most common adjustment is to the length. • Look for the “lengthen or shorten here” markings on the pattern and make needed adjustments. • The width of a skirt or pants pattern can be adjusted at the waist, hips or thigh areas. • Remember that you add or take away ¼ of the amount on each pattern piece (right front, right back, left front and left back)

4.6 Discuss factors to consider when choosing fabric and notions • Notions (small items that become a permanent part of the garment) • thread • zippers • buttons • hooks, eyes, and snaps • elastic • trim • interfacing • Consider fiber content, weight of fabric, color and how the finished garment will be laundered.

4.7 Model Steps to Calculate fabric yardage for a sewing project Frank is making a hooded sweatshirt. He needs 1 ½ yards of fleece @ $4.95/yd, ¾ yard of stretch knit @ $3.95/yd and 1 1/3 yards of cording @$.28/yd. How much will he spend?

Solution • $4.95 X 1.5= $7.425=$7.43 • $3.95 X .75= $2.962=$2.96 • $.28X 1.33=$.372= $ .37 $10.76

4.8 Illustrate basic sewing tools and pressing equipment Sewing Tools Tape measure skirt marker 6” seam gauge tracing wheel seam ripper tailor's chalk fabric pen

pincushion with emery pack pins needle shears scissors thimble

Pressing Equipment ironing board sleeve board iron pressing cloth tailor’s ham sleeve roll

4.9 Name basic parts of the sewing machine and functions of each p. 392 in your text book

4.10 Demonstrate guidelines for operating a sewing machine • This will be achieved by the following sewing projects: • Pajama pants • Hooded Sweatshirt • Chef’s Apron

4.11 Name basic parts of the serger and function of each. • p.471 in your textbook

4.12 Demonstrate guidelines for operating a serger • Students will operate the sergers.

4.13 Designate acceptable conduct and safety procedures during clothing lab • Use a slow speed when learning how to use the machine. • Keep your fingers away form the needle. • Do not lean your face too close when stitching in case the needle breaks. • Do not stitch over pins. Carefully remove them as you sew. • Keep pins in a pin cushion, never in your mouth or clothes. • Keep shears and scissors closed when not using them. • Pass shears and scissors handle first to another person. • Keep all tools in your sewing box when not in use.

Do not stretch the cord of the iron across traffic area. Do not touch a hot iron except on the handle. Keep your fingers and face away from the steam of an iron. Do not overfill the iron or the water can boil out. Always rest the iron on its heel, not flat down on the soleplate. Turn off and unplug the iron after each use. Drain the water from the iron before storing.

4.14 Discuss basic procedures involved in construction of a project using woven and knitted fabric. • Pajama pants are made of woven fabric with elastic waistband. • Chef’s apron is made of a woven fabric. • Hooded sweat shirt is fleece with knit bands at the waist and sleeves.

4.15 Demonstrate correct procedures for specific hand sewing techniques • Hems • Buttons • Snaps • Hooks and Eyes

4.16 List factors to consider in evaluating a project according to basic construction techniques Example of Rubrics

4.17 Techniques for altering a finished garment • raising or lowering a hem • taking in or letting out a waistband • taking up or letting out a side seam • replacing buttons • adding trim

Clothing Management