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Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution

Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution. 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established. 1790-1820 NeoClassicism/Directoire. Departures from typical fashion evolution… Women-waistlines rise, slender silhouette

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Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution

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  1. Neo-classicism toIndustrial Revolution 1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

  2. 1790-1820 NeoClassicism/Directoire • Departures from typical fashion evolution… • Women-waistlines rise, slender silhouette • Men-waistline rises, wide lapels (Incroyable, frock) • Changing male ideals-plain, dark, unadorned, suits • Tailoring important • 1818, tape measure/Brooks Bros. • Beau Brummel, male fashion icon, minimalist style • sideburns-first fashionable facial hair in over century

  3. 1840-1860 Industrial Revolution • Men • Cutaway becomes tailcoat, only evening • Sack coat (closest to modern) • Decorative waistcoat disappearing • Stripes, checks, patterns; some dandies accessorize • Power weaving, cylinder printing-cheaper fabrics • By 1860, fashion journalism global…

  4. 1815-1848 Romantic (1790-1840 women) • Neoclassical-beginning of consistent historic revival (Pompeii, classical Greek) • “Stays” reduced temporarily, patterned cottons day, dark/heavy evening • 1820s, back to natural waist, volume increases, X silhouette, horizontal emphasis • Corsets, cutting, shaping, applied decoration • 1830s wide off-shoulder, printed fabrics, bum rolls, petticoats

  5. 1840-1860 Industrial Revol women • Sleeve volume reduced, Vertical emphasis-V waist, bell/pagoda sleeve • More exotics imitated, Kashmir shawls • Voluminous skirt “crinoline,” horsehair • Technology-cage crinoline, fabric over steel • REFORM dress; health, rights (Bloomer)

  6. Ready-Made Clothing (still 1840-1860) • Slops/soldiers (since 1660s)-1st RTW • Industrialization/banking • office clerks, not bespoke, consistent business dress (telegraph, typewriter) • 1839 Daguerre, photography, truthful visual • 1840s London-Savile Row tailoring (Poole, military tailor) • 1846 Howe, sewing machine (5+yrs Singer) • 1850s, wood pulp paper, printing • 1856, first synthetic dye (1860s common) • 1857 Charles Frederick WORTH, Empress Eugenie, birth of haute couture

  7. Victorian/Edwardian 1860-1910 • 1837-1901 Queen Victoria/1901-1911 Edward • Visual info, mass production, dept stores, mail order… • MEN, standard sizing (Civil War data), menswear suited to mass production • Detachable collar/cuffs, necktie, straight silhouette • 3 pc. sack suit, “tuxedo park” tuxedo/evening • Hats-bowler/derby, fedora, boater; fewer beards • Sports important-Norfolk jacket; bathing costume

  8. Late Victorian 1860-1900 • Women-rapid change, difficult to mass produce • Sewing girls • Home sewing machine-masses of décor • Imports-plaids/tartans, paisley, Zouave jkts • Corset-hourglass; drawers to ankles/chemise • Day-modest, evening-low neck/short slv, extended/wide shoulder-line, wide elliptical hoops/cages • Fair complexion-parasols, gloves, fans

  9. contd. • Worth-merchandising/showroom/dictated • 1868 Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne-regulated/business • 1870 BUSTLE, longer corset/bodice (not round hoop, back emphasis) • Princess line (Princess Metternich, Worth client)-vert seams, no waistline

  10. 1880s-developments • Emmigration-garment manufacturing… • Sweating-long hrs, poor conditions • 1900 ILGWU (triangle shirtwaist factory-labor laws/unions) • Dept. stores (Bon marche)-leisure activity • Patterns printed in Harper’s

  11. Movements • Aesthetic dress • vege dyes, Oscar Wilde, Liberty London • Rational dress, health movement (loose) • Gay Nineties-la Belle Epoque • Lessening morality from Victorian • 1899 Veblen “Theory of Leisure Class” • Women in wkforce • Telephone, typewriter, nursing • 2pc. Suit, shirtwaist blouse

  12. 1880s-1890s women’s fashion • 1885 shelf-like projection of skirts • Dolman cape, Ulster coat (half-belt) • BLACK hide dirt, adapt for mourning • Victoria 1861-1901 • Actresses-fashion leaders (photography) • 1895 leg-o-mutton sleeve, trumpet skirt

  13. Art Nouveau/Edwardian 1900-1910 • Cycling-trousers for women • Art Nouveau-curvilinear • S-curve silhouette 1900-1908 • Paris exhibition (couturiers) • Monobosom, hip thrust, bishop/leg-o-mutton, softer/light • Gibson Girl • Pompadours, wide hats, plumage (Audubon society) • Paul Poiret-freed women • 1st modern couturier, 1909 empire waist • Automobiles-duster/motorcoat (and shorter styles)

  14. 1910 Corsets http://laracorsets.com/History_of_the_corset_11_1910-1920.htm

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