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Ocean Waves

Ocean Waves. 6 th Grade. Ocean Waves. http://oceanexplorer.noaa.gov/edu/learning/9_ocean_waves/ocean_waves.html#slide. What is a GOOD wave definition: . Wave : the movement of energy through a body of water Usually begins with WIND . The SIZE of waves depend on what? .

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Ocean Waves

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  1. Ocean Waves 6th Grade

  2. Ocean Waves • http://oceanexplorer.noaa.gov/edu/learning/9_ocean_waves/ocean_waves.html#slide

  3. What is a GOOD wave definition: • Wave: the movement of energy through a body of water • Usually begins with WIND

  4. The SIZE of waves depend on what? • Strength of the wind • Length of time it blows • Distance over which the wind blows

  5. Wave energy • Surface water moves toward shore, but DEEP water doesn’t • ENERGY of the deep wave moves to share, but the water remains in place

  6. Waves –circular motion

  7. What is Longshore Drift? • As waves come into the shore, water washes up at the beach at an ANGLE, carrying the sand grains. The water and sand then run straight back down to the beach.

  8. Longshore Drift

  9. Groins are used to help control longshore drift

  10. Rip Currents: What are they and how do they occur? • A rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow opening • As the sandbar grows, it traps the water flowing along the shore –water can break through the sandbar and flow back down to the ocean bottom

  11. Rip currents/tides • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8c7RJx5pBg

  12. Rip Currents

  13. Rip Currents

  14. Rip Currents/Tides

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