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History of Costume

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  1. History of Costume Dark Ages – Edwardian Era 500 A.D. - 1914

  2. The Dark Ages • Saxon and Frankish Era 500-599 A.D. • A continuation of the tunic • Belted at the waist or hip • Men begin to wear trouser like garments • Leggings • Cloaks – fur lined& some wool • Fastened with brooches Thomas, P.W. (2008) Early Clothing Costume History 500-1066AD: Saxon, Frankish & Anglo-Saxon Clothing retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/ancient_costume/clothing-saxon-frankish-anglo.htm

  3. The Dark Ages • The Anglo – Saxon Era 700 – 999 • Similar to the Saxon & Frankish Era • Hoods were added to cloaks in the 9th century • The wrap over coat and waist coat appeared • Began to see class distinction through dress • Nobility had embellishments on the collar, waist or border of their tunics • Nobility wore longer tunics • Working class & Peasants wore plain shorter tunics • THINK MOVIE: King Arthur

  4. The Dark Ages Anglo-Saxon Lady & Women Anglo-Saxon King & Queen Anglo-Saxon Warrior & Man Thomas, P.W. (2008) Early Clothing Costume History 500-1066AD: Saxon, Frankish & Anglo-Saxon Clothing retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/ancient_costume/clothing-saxon-frankish-anglo.htm

  5. The Dark Ages • The Anglo – Saxon Era 1000-1099 • Men • Continued to wear tunics but shorter • Piercings became popular • Coifs – flat, round caps • Long stockings with feet & short boots • Women • Long woolen gown – sometimes 2 layers • Inner gown tight sleeves; outer gown loose sleeves • Wore cloak or mantle over outer gown • Began to wear head covering unless very young

  6. The Dark Ages 500-1100 Think Movies: Beowolf & Grendel Tristan & Isolde The 13th Warrior

  7. Medieval/Middle Ages • Early Period: 1100-1199 • simple shaped fitted tunic for men • Long, wide gown with decorative embroidery for women • The Bliautwas a dress worn by woman or men in this time period. • Hose took the place of trousers • THINK MOVIE: Robin Hood

  8. Medieval/Middle Ages • After 1200 • Men • Tight short clothes with long pointed shoes • The longer the point the higher the status

  9. Medieval/Middle Ages • After 1200 • Women • Began to use tight lacing on women's to create a form fitting shape • girdled at the hips • created a long - waisted appearance • Long, trailing gowns • Hennin, worn 1300- 1400,was a cone-like hat resembling the spires of the cathedral spire.

  10. Late Medieval Ages • 1400-1500 • Fashion in this era was greatly influenced by the high class society and the European Kings and Queens. • The Surcoat was a popular fashion accessory for the men of this era. • Peasants had a lot of different clothing styles because each particular style identified the woman with her hometown.

  11. Medieval/Middle Ages Think Movies: Becket BraveHeart A Knight’s Tale The Hunchback of Notre Dame Robin Hood http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/medievalmovies.html

  12. Renaissance: 1400-1500 • Shapes becoming rounder • Accentuate Physique • Drawers & Padding for men • Codpiece for men • a decorative triangular piece of fabric attached at the groin. • Men wore blouses with exposed chest • Pregnancy Pillows for Women • the maternal look was fashionable. • Looser, sexier clothing • THINK: Romeo & Juliet .

  13. Renaissance: 1400-1500

  14. Renaissance: 1500 - 1600 Elizabethan Era • Tighter, stiff, more rigid clothing • Heavy and Luxurious Fabrics • Slashing - cut in the outer surfaces of garments • doublets, sleeves and gowns • exposed the contrasting color of the linings beneath • Ruff worn by both men & women • large stiff collar worn at this time.

  15. Renaissance: 1500 - 1600 Elizabethan Era • Farthingale for Women • stiff metal cone-shaped article worn under skirts • Corset • V-Waist • Accessories • Pearls, heeled shoes • Tights for men • THINK: Shakespeare in Love

  16. Elizabethan Era 1500-1600

  17. Renaissance Think Movies: Hamlet Elizabeth Ever After Shakespeare in Love Romeo & Juliet The Agony & the Ecstasy http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/renaissancemovies.html

  18. Cavalier 1620-1660 France Begins to influence Fashion • Fashion which said “I don’t have to work for a living.” • Sensual & Soft look, less stiffness • Waistlines began to rise • Ruffs were replaced by lace or linen collars • Sleeves began to become fuller • Men began wearing breeches instead of hose • Accessories • Turned down boots • Tall broad hats • Ribbons & bows

  19. Doublets were pointed and fitted close to the body, with tight sleeves • Sleeveless leather jerkins were worn by soldiers • Think “Three Musketeers”

  20. Restoration 1660 - 1715 Women’s Fashion • Full, loose sleeves that end at elbow • Tightly corseted • Mantua • Hung from the shoulders to the floor • worn for 'undress' wear • The overskirt was looped back and held by ribbon bows. • Train length determined by social status • Hair worn in tight curls • Got bigger and higher as the period went on http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/restoration.htm

  21. Restoration 1660 - 1715 Men’s Fashion • Breeches became very baggy • Coat and Waist coat • Ruffled long sleeved shirt • Cravats worn over the neck • Periwig • Wig worn by men throughout the period http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/restoration.htm

  22. Restoration 1660 - 1715 http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/restoration.htm

  23. Cavalier/Restoration Think Movies: Girl with the Pearl Earring Pirates of the Carribean The Man in the Iron Mask The Three Muskateers The Scarlet Letter http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/baroquemovies.html

  24. Historical Costume and the Movies Assignment Directions: • Go to email and open the document I sent you. • Find 12 pictures from 12 different movies that represents 12 different time periods. • Paste the picture in the box provided, then fill in the information in the corresponding box. • Save your document, then email it to me when you are complete. • You will be getting more notes Friday and will have time to finish. Movie Title: 300 Time Period: Greek B.C. Evidence of Time Period: Greek Chiton dress with belts holding in place Historically Accurate: No, Chiton would cover whole torso front and back. You can tell double sided tape was used to hold dress in place. Website: http://photos.lucywho.com/queen-gorgo-photo-gallery-c16025998.html

  25. Georgian 1700-1775 Men’s Fashion • Flat Front Breeches—breeches with a buttoned front flap. • The Justaucorps for men was the forerunner of today’s suit coat. • The Spencer was a short jacket without tails. • Queue—A long pigtail or ponytail that men would wear on the back of the neck with their own hair or with their wig. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/georgian.htm

  26. Georgian 1700-1775 Thomas, P.W. (2008) King George III - 1760-1820 - Daily & Occupational Dress of Men. Retrieved from :http://www.fashion-era.com/english-costume/1760-1820-george-iii-mens-clothes.htm

  27. Georgian 1700-1775 Women’s Fashion • Panniers—baskets made of reed or whale bone held together with ribbon used to hold out the skirt • The hoop was first funnel-shaped, but from 1730s to 1740s grew very broad at the sides and flat front and back. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/georgian.htm

  28. Georgian 1700-1775 Women’s Fashion • Watteau Gown— a loose sack or dress, worn over a tight bodice and very full underskirt. • The loose folds falling from the shoulders in back became part of the skirt. • The front of the gown varied in design, either hanging loose or fitted at the waist, worn closed or open, and, if open, revealing a bodice and underskirt. • The elbow-length sleeves had vertical pleats and soft, wide cuffs. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/georgian.htm

  29. Georgian 1700-1775 Women’s Fashion • Pompadour—large hair-do associated with the French court and often had birds or toys placed in it. • Shepherdess Hat—A hat worn by fashionable women that resembled a shepardess hat. It was referring to the romantic life of the country. • Mob Cap—Large cap with soft, full crown and wide brim which almost hid the face; usually trimmed with ribbon bands and loops Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/georgian.htm

  30. Georgian Think Movies: A Tale of Two Cities Marie Antoinette The Duchess The Legend of Sleepy Hollow The Patriot The Last of the Mohicans http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/georgianmovies.html

  31. THINK MOVIE: Marie Antoinette

  32. Empire 1790-1815 Men's Fashion • Breeches became longer and more tightly fitted • Trousers or Pantaloons for the street • Coats were cutaway with long tails and standing collars • Waist coats were high waisted and squared off at the bottom • Hair wax and mutton chops were the new hair fad • Wellington style boot

  33. Empire 1790-1815 Women's Fashion • The triumph of the “undressed” look • Followed the simple flowing lines of the Greek silhouette • Empire Waist • High waisted, natural look • No corsets • Accessories • Gloves • Vinaigrette: small drawstring handbag

  34. Empire Think Movies: Becoming Jane Emma Pride & Prejudice The Count of Monte Cristo The Brother’s Grimm http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/regencymovies.html

  35. THINK MOVIE: Emma

  36. Romantic Era 1815-1840 Men's Fashion • Peg-Top Trousers–Trousers that were wide and pleated at the top and very narrow at the ankles. • The name peg-top originally applied to a boy’s cone-shaped spinning top. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/romantic.htm

  37. Romantic Era 1815-1840 Men's Fashion • Sack Coat–A loose-fitting coat ending at the finger tips and having high short lapels. It was used in sports and in commerce. • Great Coat–An overcoat usually made out of wool and not as fitted as a regular coat. • Frock Coat–A double-breasted coat having long skirts of equal length in front and back. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/romantic.htm

  38. Romantic Era 1815-1840 Men's Fashion Accessories • Ascot–A scarf tied in a knot with horizontal ends, then crossed diagonally. The whole usually held in place with a jeweled stickpin. • Bowler–A stiff felt hat with a low, round crown and narrow brim; the bowler, similar to a derby, has a slightly wider brim and roll at the sides. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/romantic.htm

  39. Romantic Era 1815-1840 Women's Fashion • Beret Sleeves - cut from a circle with an opening in the center for the arm and this was gathered and bound into a band. The outer circle was gathered and set into the armhole • Gigot Sleeves–A full sleeve with more fullness at the elbow than at the shoulder or wrist. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/romantic.htm

  40. Romantic Era 1815-1840 Women's Fashion • Wider Skirt Hemlines: • Gored into panels from 1820-1828 to added width at hemline, but keep tight waist • Decoration of stuffed rouleau tubes, Italian quilting and flounces and frills were added to push out the skirt hem width in an architectural way. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era – Fashion History. Retreived from: http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm#Romantic Era 1825-1835

  41. Romantic Era 1815-1840 Women's Fashion • Pelerine Collars (1836): covered wide shoulders and added modesty. • The width of the lace pelerine reached about 31 inches when at its widest fashion. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era – Fashion History. Retreived from: http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm#Romantic Era 1825-1835

  42. Romantic Era 1815-1840 Women's Fashion • Hats: Large romantic wide hats, ornately trimmed with feathers, loops of ribbons and bows • complemented the wide shoulder lines of the 1830s • Bonnets were virtually interchangeable with hats • Coal scuttle bonnet styles with deep crowns accommodated the high • Apollo knot: hair style of a high twist on top of the head. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era – Fashion History. Retreived from: http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm#Romantic Era 1825-1835

  43. Victorian Era – Crinoline 1837 - 1860 Men’s Fashion • Prince Albert Coat Another name for the double-breasted frock coat with satin lapels, named after the consort of Queen Victoria who favored the style. • String Tie Basic ribbon, often black, tied in a bow with the ends hanging down. • Gaiters Covers that covered the shoe so they wouldn't get muddy. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/crinoline.htm

  44. Victorian Era – Crinoline 1837 - 1860 Men’s Fashion • Dundrearies Long side burnes, Lamb Chops, worn my Lord Dundreary on Our American Cousin, by Tom Taylor. • Stove-Pipe Hat A tall, cylindrical hat with very little brim; worn by men. • PinceNiz A style of eye glasses that pinched the nose. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/crinoline.htm

  45. Victorian Era – Crinoline Women's Fashion 1837 - 1860 • Return to the look of demure prim gentility • Big hats leave and bonnets return • The Gigot sleeve collapses in for a much narrower sleeve and dropped shoulder line. • Tight, pointed longer boned bodice to emphasize a small waistline • Pantalettes: Leg coverings of lace and ruffles that extended below the knees Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm

  46. Victorian Era – Crinoline Women's Fashion 1837-1860 • Dolman: A three-quarter-length outer wrap made of brocade, silk, or woolen fabric with sleeves cut in one with the body. . • Pagoda Sleeves A sleeve shaped like a funnel, tight above and gradually widening at the bottom, often finishing in several ruffles over a soft lawn under-sleeve. • Sleeves were off the shoulders for evening wear for upper class. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm

  47. Victorian Era – Crinoline Women's Fashion 1837-1860 • Bell shaped skirts become so large they are more dome shaped. • Held up by 6 layers of petticoats • Supported by stiffer fabrics with “Crin” woven in horsehair to make fabrics stiffer. • Crinoline: any garment that used this type of lining to make it stiff • Crinoline cage: metal steel frame cage that freed women of petticoats Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm

  48. Victorian 1865-1890 Four factors that begin to influence fashion • The invention of the sewing machine • Fashion becomes couture design led • Synthetic dyes allow for intense colors • Dome skirt started to have a flat front and a dramatic leaning back. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/mid-late_victorian_fashion.htm

  49. Victorian 1865-1890 Men's Fashion • Blazer—A lightweight sport jacket. • Norfolk Jacket—A jacket with box pleats or straps of the same material passing over the belt and extending from shoulder to hem in front and back; usually worn for sport occasions. • Inverness—A full, sleeveless cape which fitted closely around the neck; from Inverness in Scotland. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/bustle.htm