Moles and Voles

1. Moles and Voles Presented by: Wilma Sharp Devin Wallace Susan Neidlinger Cathy Johnson Pine Vole Meadow Vole Eastern Mole

2. VOLES Identification and Characteristics

3. Characteristics • Pine Vole Cannot see eyes and ears Short tail Reddish brown or grey fur Smaller than a meadow vole 3” long; weighs 1 oz. or less Female produces 4-6 litters yearly of 2.8 babies Lives below ground mostly in clay soils mostly at the edge of woods and meadows. Tunnels are 1” to 2’ below ground Destroys vegetation below ground and just at the surface

4. Visual Signs of the Pine Vole • Damage to underground roots • Roots look like they have been sharpened in a pencil sharpener • Roots may be severed from tree or plant causing it to die • Will eat apples from bottom up leaving a hollow shell • Will also eat flower bulbs underground • Often girdle crowns of trees, especially under snow • Night time feeding above ground of fruits and tender green leaves

6. Characteristics • Meadow Vole Visible eyes and ears Longer tail (longer that back legs) Dark brown fur 3.5” to 5” long and weighs 1-2.5 pounds Lives in a complex network of tunnels near the surface in grassy areas Mostly damages vegetation above ground

7. Signs of the Meadow Vole Most common sign of meadow vole damage is gnawing of tree bark May see fresh grass clippings and feces along large clumps of grass Like the pine vole, will eat fruits of the strawberry and blueberry plants and will gnaw stems and roots of ornamental shrubs

8. Biology and Behavior of Moles

9. Controlling Moles and Voles • Habitat Reduction

10. Controlling Moles and Voles • Habitat Reduction • Predators

11. Controlling Moles and Voles • Habitat Reduction • Predators • Trapping

12. Trapping Pine Voles • Fall is best time

13. Trapping Pine Voles • Fall is best time • Use ordinary mousetraps

14. Trapping Pine Voles • Fall is best time • Use ordinary mousetraps • Bait with peanut butter or apple slices

15. Trapping Pine Voles • Fall is best time • Use ordinary mousetraps • Bait with peanut butter or apple slices • Use 1 trap per 100 square feet

16. Trapping Pine Voles • Fall is best time • Use ordinary mousetraps • Bait with peanut butter or apple slices • Use 1 trap per 100 square feet • Set trap in active run

17. Trapping Pine Voles • Excavate area so trap will lay flush with bottom of run

18. Trapping Pine Voles • Excavate area so trap will lay flush with bottom of run • Set trap at right angle to run

19. Trapping Pine Voles • Excavate area so trap will lay flush with bottom of run • Set trap at right angle to run • Cover excavated area so no light reaches trap site

20. Trapping Pine Voles • Fall is best time • Use ordinary mousetraps • Bait with peanut butter or apple slices • Use 1 trap per 100 square feet • Set trap in active run • Check traps daily until no voles are caught for 1 week

21. Trapping Pine Voles • Fall is best time • Use ordinary mousetraps • Bait with peanut butter or apple slices • Use 1 trap per 100 square feet • Set trap in active run • Check traps daily until no voles are caught for 1 week • Wear disposable gloves and wash hands thoroughly after emptying traps

22. Trapping Meadow Voles • Similar to trapping pine voles except since their tunnels are in grass thatch or just beneath surface - no need for excavation

23. Trapping Moles - “Kill” Traps • “Kill” traps for moles, such as this scissor type, are difficult to set and properly place

24. Trapping Moles - “Kill” Traps • “Kill” traps for moles, such as this scissor type, are difficult to set and properly place • Can cause personal injury.

25. Trapping Moles - “Kill” Traps • “Kill” traps for moles, such as this scissor type, are difficult to set and properly place • Can cause personal injury. • Dangerous for pets or small children.

26. Trapping Moles - “Kill” Traps • “Kill” traps for moles, such as this scissor type, are difficult to set and properly place • Can cause personal injury. • Dangerous for pets or small children. • Should be left to those trained in the handling of wild animals.

27. Trapping Moles – “Pit” Traps • Best time is spring as soon as first ridges appear or after fall rains

28. Trapping Moles – “Pit” Traps • Best time is spring as soon as first ridges appear or after fall rains • Use can large enough that mole will be unable to escape (3 lb coffee can should suffice)

29. Trapping Moles – “Pit” Traps • Best time is spring as soon as first ridges appear or after fall rains • Use can large enough that mole will be unable to escape (3 lb coffee can should suffice) • Determine main or frequently used runways

30. Trapping Moles – “Pit” Traps • Best time is spring as soon as first ridges appear or after fall rains • Use can large enough that mole will be unable to escape (3 lb coffee can should suffice) • Determine main or frequently used runways • Set “pit” trap

31. Trapping Moles – “Pit” Traps • Dig hole through center of runway

32. Trapping Moles – “Pit” Traps • Dig hole through center of runway • Place a #10 tin can upright in hole (be sure top of can is level with bottom of runway)

33. Trapping Moles – “Pit” Traps • Dig hole through center of runway • Place a #10 tin can upright in hole (be sure top of can is level with bottom of runway) • Fill and pack dirt tightly around the can and plug both sides of runway

34. Trapping Moles – “Pit” Traps • Dig hole through center of runway • Place a #10 tin can upright in hole (be sure top of can is level with bottom of runway) • Fill and pack dirt tightly around the can and plug both sides of runway • Lay board over pit to block light

35. Trapping Moles – “Pit” Traps • Best time is spring as soon as first ridges appear or after fall rains • Use can large enough that mole will be unable to escape (3 lb coffee can should suffice) • Determine main or frequently used runways • Set “pit” trap • Illegal to transport wild animal captured on your property to another property without permit

36. Trapping Moles – “Pit” Traps • Best time is spring as soon as first ridges appear or after fall rains • Use can large enough that mole will be unable to escape (3 lb coffee can should suffice) • Determine main or frequently used runways • Set “pit” trap • Illegal to transport wild animal captured on your property to another property without permit • Perform humane euthanasia (wear heavy gloves and long-sleeved garments before handling)

37. Controlling Moles and Voles • Habitat Reduction • Predators • Trapping • Chemicals

38. Chemical Control – Moles and Voles • Most effective formulations (fumigants, toxicants) require a certified-pesticide applicator license to obtain and use.

39. Chemical Control – Moles and Voles • Most effective formulations (fumigants, toxicants) require a certified-pesticide applicator license to obtain and use. • Baits are available to control voles. Always follow the instructions carefully as they can be harmful to children and pets.

40. Chemical Control – Moles and Voles • Most effective formulations (fumigants, toxicants) require a certified-pesticide applicator license to obtain and use. • Baits are available to control voles. Always follow the instructions carefully as they can be harmful to children and pets. • Baits are not usually effective for moles since they are insectivores.

41. Chemical Control – Moles and Voles • Most effective formulations (fumigants, toxicants) require a certified-pesticide applicator license to obtain and use. • Baits are available to control voles. Always follow the instructions carefully as they can be harmful to children and pets. • Baits are not usually effective for moles since they are insectivores. • Inseticides have been used to reduce the grubs population and limit the mole’s food source. But moles usually just switch to another food source – ie. beneficial earth worms so it is not a very effective control.

42. Controlling Moles and Voles • Habitat Reduction • Predators • Trapping • Chemicals • Barriers

43. Barriers • Offer long-term protection but only practical in small areas

44. Barriers • Offer long-term protection but only practical in small areas • Install sheet metal or hardware cloth barrier around perimeter of bed

45. Barriers • Offer long-term protection but only practical in small areas • Install sheet metal or hardware cloth barrier around perimeter of bed • Barrier should extend 5” above the ground surface • Barrier should be buried 12 – 15” deep • 6” of the barrier should be bent out at the bottom to discourage moles and voles from digging under (form an ”L” with the foot of the “L extending away from the bed)

46. Barriers • Offer long-term protection but only practical in small areas • Install sheet metal or hardware cloth barrier around perimeter of bed • Barrier should extend 5” above the ground surface • Barrier should be buried 12 – 15” deep • 6” of the barrier should be bent out at the bottom to discourage moles and voles from digging under (form an ”L” with the foot of the “L extending away from the bed) • All corners must be secure

47. Controlling Moles and Voles • Habitat Reduction • Predators • Trapping • Chemicals • Barriers • Miscellaneous

48. Miscellaneous Controls • Coarse material, such as sharp-edged pea gravel, can be useful deterrents when mixed throughout the soil when putting in new plants.

49. Miscellaneous Controls • Coarse material, such as sharp-edged pea gravel, can be useful deterrents when mixed throughout the soil when putting in new plants. • Sonic or vibration producing devices have no proven effect.

50. Miscellaneous Controls • Coarse material, such as sharp-edged pea gravel, can be useful deterrents when mixed throughout the soil when putting in new plants. • Sonic or vibration producing devices have no proven effect. • Flooding tunnels has not proven effective.