Classification of Skin Tones Understanding Ethnicity

1. Classification of Skin TonesUnderstanding Ethnicity

2. The Fitzpatrick Scale According to Thomas B. Fitzpatrick (1975) a human beings skin colour can be classified into a numerical scheme that measures how different skin types react to ultraviolet (UV) light.

3. How is this useful to a Make-up Artist?

4. As a Make-up Artist we can embed “The Fitzpatrick Theory” into our consultations and assessment of our clients skin tones, thus enabling us to select the most suitable shade of foundation to meet our clients needs.

5. Skin Tone 1 Really fair/pale skin Freckly Little to no ability to tan Burns very easily and severely Prone to peeling Pale blue/ green eyes Naturally red/ strawberry blond hair Warm toned ‘rosy’ skin tone, would naturally be an NW

6. Skin Tone 2 Fair skin tone Burns quickly Minimal to light ability to tan Prone to peeling Blue to hazel eyes Naturally blonde, fair or red hair Warm toned, rosy skin tone, would naturally be an NW

7. Skin Tone 3 Prone to moderate burning Ability to gain an average tan Diverse eye colours Various natural hair colours Has a cool, golden toned skin, would naturally be an NC

8. Skin Tone 4 Minimal Burning Tans easily with an above average depth Light brown to olive skin tone Dark hair Dark eyes Has a cool, golden toned skin, would naturally be an NC Asian, Hispanic, Mediterranean

9. Skin Tone 5 Rarely burns Tans very easily and substantially Brown skin in both exposed and unexposed areas of the body Dark brown hair and eyes Has a cool, golden toned skin, would naturally be an NC East Indians, Mixed race (Caucasian/Black)

10. Skin Tone 6 Tans Profusely Never burns Black skin Black hair Dark brown eyes Warm toned, rosy skin tone, would naturally be an NW (red) African, African-American, south Indian and Australian Aborigines

11. Know your client! P L Recommend your product shades with confidence!

12. CAMOUFLAGE

13. Men Women Who Wears Camouflage? Children

14. About Cosmetic Camouflage Make-Up Cosmetic Camouflage is the application of Make-Up Creams and powders to conceal colour or skin imperfections. It offers people an answer to solve skin related problems such as: *Atrophic Scar Tissue *Hypertrophic Scar Tissue *Keloid Scar Tissue *Hyper-Pigmentation *Hypo-Pigmentation *Erythema *Bruising *Tattoos

15. CAMOUFLAGE PRODUCTS Qualities of Camouflage Products: Hypo-allergenic Highly Pigmented Fragrance Free Contain SPF Opaque Water Resistant (when applied and set correctly)

16. Covermark: Made in America in the 1920’s Now made in Europe Provides day long cover SPF15 Keromask: Needs powder to become water resistant Liquid consistency, good for large areas Available in different sized tubes Minimum SPF Lasts for 8hrs when applied correctly Not tested on animals Veil: British product made in Yorkshire in the 1950’s Protects from UVA and UVB Lasts 24hr when applied correctly Can “slide” on oily or hot skin and in humidity Works best on a dry skin Yellow tones now available since the original colour selection Dermacolor: Replaced Dermablend by L'Oreal Lasts 24hr when correctly applied Water resistant when powdered Fixing spray available SPF15 Available from Charles Fox Products Available with NHS Prescriptions

17. Screen Face (Do portable palettes for artists in a wallet form) Grimas Kryolan Ben Nye Rita Roberts (identical to Dermacolor) Super Cover (Good brand for emollients and powder) Art Deco (Limited colour selection) Jane Iredale(powder camouflage that is instantly waterproof with good coverage, loose and compact form. Can be use over crème camouflage. Not good for tattoos or portwine) MAC Clinique Elizabeth Arden Other Brands Available

18. SETTING POWDERS Most ranges provide them Used to ensure proper setting of camouflage Make camouflage water resistant Any good quality powder may work well Colourless powders work better Should always be hypo-allergenic Should always be Perfume free SPF powders are available Additional Supportive Camouflage Products

19. FIXING SPRAY Not available with all brands Use to further aid in the setting of camouflage Makes camouflage water resistant Help to return a natural sheen to the skins surface Usually contain an SPF Should never be applied directly to the face Additional Supportive Camouflage Products

20. Titanium Dioxide & ‘Ghosting’ or ‘Flash Back’ Titanium dioxide and/or iron oxide are used within camouflage crème and powders to: • Reflect UV light • Provide an SPF • Prevent photosensitive reactions • Provide an opaque appearance

21. Titanium Dioxide & ‘Ghosting’ or ‘Flash Back’ Disadvantages of Titanium dioxide and iron oxide are: • Under flash photography or harsh lighting these ingredients appear pale, creating a whitening effect visible in a photograph known as ‘flash back’ or ‘ghosting’. • When used on dark skin tones (particularly black skin) the ingredients can create a greying effect to the appearance of the camouflaged area.

22. Durability of Products When set properly camouflage should last on the skin 8-24 hrs, however certain factors may affect durability and application: Client’s Skin • Oily skin-product may “slide”. Clean skin with a toner prior to application to remove oil residue before camouflage application. • Dry Skin-product may appear “cracked”. Moisturiser may be used in this circumstance. Client’s Lifestyle • Perspiration may cause camouflage to lift • Camouflage is only water resistant so leisure activities such as swimming may also affect durability

23. Durability of Products Area of body to be camouflaged: • Friction and rubbing may remove camouflage Care of application: • Oil based products/ water in oil (i.e. KY Jelly, Cold Crème Cleanser, Baby oil) will remove camouflage • When drying pat, do not rub Environmental conditions: • Excessive heat and humidity may reduce the camouflages durability

24. Product Quality Assurance The Cosmetic Product (Safety) Regulations 1996 Act states that all products clearly display their: • Best before date • A list of products ingredients

25. Applying Camouflage Make-Up • Cleanse and tone the area. Apply moisturiser if requires. • Examine the area, if neutralisation is required, block out using a thin layer of the complementary coloured camouflage cream on the area. • With a velour puff apply setting powder, leave to set for 10 minutes before removal. • Blot with damp cotton wool to remove excess powder, if the colour bleeds through, apply another layer. • Mix the colour to match the surrounding skin tone, making note of which colours you use throughout. • Apply using a sponge/brush • Set with powder then wait for 10 minutes before removal. You may need to repeat this process several times. • Spray with water if the area looks “powdery” • Optional stage- apply fixing spray