Chapter 1 Introduction to Textile

1. Chapter 1 Introduction to Textile • Objectives: 1. To provide an overview of the importance of textiles in world history and in the United States (and Chinese) economy. 2. To describe the primary textile markets. • Key Words: fabric primary textile markets yarn fiber textile

2. Glossary of Textile Terms pile rug 绒头地毯 garment（一件）衣服，外衣，外表 flying shuttle 飞梭 spinning jenny詹尼多轴纺纱机 drafting roller 牵伸罗拉 spinning mule 走锭细纱机 power loom 力织机 tufted carpet 簇绒地毯 MFA 多种纤维协定 GATT 关贸总协定

3. A fiber strand of continuous length. A planar structure consisting of yarns or fibers. Short fibers that are measured in inches or fractions of inches (or centimeters), as opposed to meters or yards. A unit, either natural or manmade, that serves as the basic element, or “building block”, of fabrics and other textile structures. Most fibers are characterized by having a length at least 100 times their diameter. A continuous strand of staple or filament textile fibers in a form suitable for knitting, weaving, or other methods of intertwining, interlacing, interlooping, or entangling to form a fabric. • textile Generally, any product made from fibers of spinnable length. • More specifically: • Staple fibers or filaments that are suitable for conversion into nonwoven fabric or yarns for the preparation of woven or knitted fabric. • Yarns made from natural or manmade fiber. • A fabric made from fibers and yarns. • An end-use article, produced from fibers, yarns, or fabrics, that retains the flexibility and drape of the original yarn or fabric.

4. Primary textile markets apparel textile domestic industrial

5. Which category are protective clothing and military uniforms belonged to? Which category are carpets and floor coverings belonged to?

6. A wool fabric of 790 B.C, Qinghai Province Flax fabric of 4000 B.C. HuNan Province Silk fabric of 2700 B.C. Zhejiang Province A cotton blanket used in Song Dynasty, Zhejiang Province Industrial Development 8000 B.C. flax was used by the Swiss Lake Dwellers Before 4000 B.C. Silk was used in China. Between 3500 to 3000 B.C. Cotton fiber and fabrics were used in India and Peru. About 2000 B.C. Domesticated sheep were raised in Mesopotamia.

7. Manufactured by hand before 500 B.C. in China Machine done by hand before the 18th century of the Industrial Revolution Intensive industrialization after Industrial Revolution(1770-1850) Flying shuttle 1733 John kay Spinning jenny 1767 James Hargreaves Water-powered spinning machine 1772 Richard Arkwright Spinning mule 1779 Samuel Crompton Power loom 1780 Edmund Cartwrigt

8. Economical development The Great Silk Road the 2nd century B.C. to the 9th century A.D. By the 12th century, England was a major exporter of wool After A.D. 1500, India was a major exporter of dyed and cotton fabric of Europe After Industrial Revolution, the textile and apparel industries developed in Europe. In the 1940s and 1950s, the industry was consolidated. Now, the traditional industry is changing from labor-intensive to automation.

9. Textile market (I)

10. Textile market (II)

11. Textile market (III) A comparison of fiber outputs by China and the whole World (unit: billion tons)

12. Textile market (IV) A comparison of labor cost of major area in the world (unit: dollar / labor, hour)

13. Textile market (V) Proportion of export by China to the whole world (unit: billion dollars)

14. The U.S. textile industry has sought to improve its competitive position with positive action, rather than by relying on import restrictions to increase sales of American-made goods. How about China?

15. Study questions • What are textiles? • What are the major textile markets? Activities Visit some stores and examine textile labels. Notice the difference in label information on apparel versus upholstered furniture.

17. PART I FIBERS Before 1900, only natural fibers and artificial silk or rayon Before 1940, basic textile textbooks contained little information about fibers. Today fibers have proliferated, and the differences in their properties are important in determining the end-use performance of textile products.

18. CHAPTER 2 • Objectives: 1. To describe the criteria used to classify fibers and to differentiate between staple and filament fiber forms. 2. To explain the scope of the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act and the difference between generic names and trademarks. • Key Words: filament natural fiber trademark generic name staple fiber WPL manmade fiber TFPIA

19. Technical Term bast fiber 韧皮纤维asbestos 石棉纤维 alpaca 阿尔帕卡，羊驼 angora 安哥拉山羊毛 cashmere 山羊绒，开士米 mohair 马海毛 tussah silk 柞蚕丝 vicuna 骆马绒 flax (linen) 亚麻 hemp 大麻 jute 黄麻 kapok 木棉 ramie 苎麻 sisal 剑麻 WPL 羊毛产品标签法 artificial silk 人造丝 rayon 人造丝，人造纤维Bemberg 本伯格铜铵丝 nylon尼龙 Dacron大可纶，涤纶 Acrilan阿克利纶 saran 莎纶 vinyon 维荣 modal莫代尔 spandex斯潘德克斯弹性纤维 hosiery 针织品，袜类

20. Natural fibers Fibers obtained in usable form directly from animals, vegetables, or minerals. Fibers Fibers ,such as rayon, nylon, and polyester, produced by chemical reactions that are controlled by people, as opposed to fibers that occur naturally, such as cotton, wool, and silk. Manufactured fibers TFPIA Abbreviation for the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act that defines generic names of fibers and their use. It was passed by congress in 1958 and took effect in 1960.

21. animal mineral protein asbestos Natural fibers Plant or vegetable cellulosic Natural Fibers

22. Classification of Natural Fibers

23. The group of all fibers that share a common chemical composition; can include several that are competitive in the marketplace and are protected by different trademark registrations. Manufactured fibers Generic name Three conditions must be met before a group may be added: 1. The proposed fiber must have a chemical constitution radically different from those currently listed; and that chemical constitution must produce significantly different physical properties. 2. The proposed new generic classification must be of importance to consumers at large, not merely to a small group of professionals. 3. The fiber must be in active commercial development.

24. Generic Names Specified by the TFPIA

25. Other companies Du Pont Trademarks Nylon Dacron

26. trade name A name given by a manufacturer or merchant to a product to distinguish it as one produced or sold by that company alone. More accurately, it is called a trademark name and may be protected as a trademark. trademark A word, letter, device, or symbol used in connection with merchandise and alluding to the origin or ownership of the product to which it is applied. Remember: The generic name for a fiber is established by law and only those fibers that match the chemical description may be labeled or advertised with that name. However, one company can use the same trade name for all of its’ goods.

27. Which one or ones are correct? miclon POLYESTER miclon Polyester Miclon Polyester Polyester Miclon Miclon polyester Miclon polyester polyester Miclon polyester Miclon miclon polyester miclon polyester MICLON POLYESTER Miclon polyester miclon Polyester Miclon polyester Miclon polyester Miclon polyester

28. The sequence is in descending according to the percentage Other TFPIA Provisions Fiber content Both the generic name and percentage of it A tolerance of 3% 96 percent nylon, 4 percent other fiber Less than 5% could be labeled “other” 96 percent nylon, 4 percent spandex for strech Given the purpose of the fiber

29. Country of origin A product made entirely in the United States Made in U.S.A. A product imported from other country Made in Japan A product made in the United States from an imported textile Made in U.S.A. from imported fabric These rules also apply to advertising and catalog descriptions of textile products.

30. Short fibers that are measured in inches or fractions of inches (or centimeters), as opposed to meters or yards. Manmade fibers regenerated synthetic Staple fibers A fiber strand of continuous length. Filament fibers Other fiber classification terms Manufactured fibers Length of fibers

31. Study questions • Discuss the major differences between natural and manmade fibers. • What information is needed to classify a new fiber? • Why does a company develop a trade mark for a fiber? Activities Collect advertisements or labels for clothing and home furnishings. What information about textiles is included? Are there any parts of the ads and the labels that you believe are incorrect? Rewrite some of the advertisements or labels to improve their information on textile products.

32. CHAPTER 3 Fiber Properties • Objectives: To describe primary and secondary properties of fibers and their relationships to end-use performance. • Key Words: tenacity decitex moisture regain tex denier thermal properties density morphology wicking hydrophilic yield point

33. Glossary of Technical Term polymer 聚合体 length-to-width ratio 长径比 strength 强度 flexibility 可挠曲性 cohesiveness 粘结性，内聚性 uniformity 均匀度，整齐度 mass 质量 fineness 细度 luster 光泽度 color 色彩 moisture absorption 吸湿性 elongation 伸长 elastic recovery　弹性回复 resiliency 弹性变形；弹力 thermal properties热学性能 abrasion resistance 耐磨性 specimen 试样，样品 tensile strength拉伸强力，断裂强力 tenacity 强度（单位细度的强力） specific stress 比应力 breaking load 断裂负荷 linear density 线密度 denier 旦尼尔 tex 特克斯 pliability 可挠性，柔韧性 spinning quality 纺纱性能

34. scale 鳞片（毛） merge number纺纱批号 run 一次连续生产总长lot 批，批量，组 specific gravity比重 flammability 可燃性 Micronaire fineness 马克隆尼细度（气流仪细度）wicking芯吸 yield point 屈服点 morphology 形态学 decitex 分特 polypropylene聚丙烯 hydrophobic 拒水的 hydrophilic 亲水的 moisture content含水量，含水率moisture regain回潮率 commercial moisture regain 　商业公定回潮率 Saturation regain 饱和回潮率 stress-strain curve应力应变曲线modulus 模数，模量 glass transition temperature 玻璃化转变点 melting point　熔点 flex abrasion 曲磨，挠曲磨损 flat abrasion 平面磨损 actinic degradation 光化递解

35. length to width ratio flexibility cohesiveness uniformity strength Required for manufacturing or processing the fiber into yarn or fabric. at a competitive price fiber properties Primary fiber properties

36. color mass recovery luster fineness elongation resiliency thermal property abrasion resistance moisture absorption Influence consumer to select and affect processing Secondary Fiber properties

37. production and processing of a fiber costs price the consumer is willing to pay Cost effectiveness depending on the fibers’ end use.

38. Primary properties Length to width ratio (L/W) A minimum ratio of 100 is thought to be essential, and most fibers have much higher ratios. Fibers shorter than 1.3 cm are seldom used in yarn manufacturing. affect processing length affect flexible width

39. Tensile Strength strength Tenacity Strength to withstand processing and provide the desired durability in its end use. ASTM Acronym for the American Society for Testing and Materials; most textile standards in ASTM are developed by Committee D-13. The maximum tensile stress required to rupture a fiber, expressed as pounds per square inch or grams per square centimeter The tensile strength of a fiber, expressed as force per unit of linear density of an unstrained specimen. It is usually expressed in grams per denier or grams per tex.

40. Tensile Strength 1. What is the breaking load? 2. Why does the comparison be made based on the cross-sectional area of the unstrained specimen when comparing the breaking strength of different materials? 3. What are the units for expressing the tensile strength? psi—pound-force per square inch gf/mm2—gram-force per square millimeter 4. Why the tensile strength is not used widely in the practice?

41. denier Linear density tex Tenacity Specific strength Mass in grams of 9,000 meters of material. Mass in grams of 1,000 meters of material. g/d or gf/d—gram-force per denier mN/t—millinewton per tex

42. flexibility pliability Required in the manufacture of a yarn or fabric. Also important in end-use performance. The ability of a fiber to resist repeated bending or bowing without rupture.

43. Cohesiveness Spinning quality Made the fibers can adhere to each other. Affects yarn fineness and evenness. the surface contours of fibers cotton fibers convolutions or twist woolfibers scales manmade fibers produce coils, crimps or zigzag shapes Unevenness of the fiber surfaces Why cohesion is less important for filament fibers than for staple fiber?

44. Uniformity Made the fibers processed together with less difficulty. Virtually identical in a run or lot manufactured fibers naturalfibers To combine or blend

45. Determine the end use for a specific fiber Affect the consumer’s satisfaction with a product manufacturers consumers Secondary Properties tradeoff selection

46. The study of form and shape of a substance. macroscopic length, color, luster, crimp morphology microscopic surface, cross-sectional shape

47. Mass Used to describe the quantity of matter in a body. Weight Used to describe the force exerted on a body by gravity. Density The mass per unit volume of a substance. mass Specific Gravity The ratio of the mass of a material to the mass of an equal volume of water at 4℃.

48. directly indirectly denier tex decitex Fineness cotton fibers Micronaire A type of air-flow instrument which expressed the fineness of material with micronaire fineness. In general, the M of cotton fiber should between 4-5. The larger the M is, the thicker the fiber. wool fibers Yarn Size In China, quality number is usually used as the expression for fineness of wool fiber. all kinds of fibers Linear Density When comparing the fineness of same fibers with the same density using the denier system (or tex system), it can be assumed that the fiber with the lower denier (or tex) is the finer fiber. When comparing the fineness of fibers with different density, it is possible to calculate the approximate cross-sectional area of the fibers by knowing their denier (or tex) and its density. It is unwise to compare deniers directly because most fibers are quite dissimilar in density.

49. crystalline amorphous Luster The gloss, sheen, or shine of any surface. light the surface of the fiber reflect luster luster chemical orientation duller Smooth surfaces reflect light back to their sources and appear shiny. Irregular surfaces reflect light in a scattered, random manner and appear dull.

50. Color wool Off-white, tan, brown, gray, black cotton white, cream, green, taupe bast fibers tan to brown manmade fibers white or off-white, dark gold, brown, black