institution

2. institution i-D magazine reaches 73,016 readers per month according to recent statistics released in press packs. Of that seventy-three thousand, 39,070 of those readers buy their magazine in the UK, around 54% of the total circulation, meaning that the audience catered for is predominantly going to be British. This will be likely to affect the tastes and style portrayed by the magazine 33,946 of i-D’s circulation ends up in the rest of Europe, USA and Australasia, showing a complete reliance on English speaking countries, despite the price appearing in Yen on the front cover along with GBP and USD. 5,864 readers currently have a subscription to i-D. An estimated 4.3 readers per copy gives i-D a total estimated readership of 313,968.

3. audience Of the total readership, there is a 49/51 male female divide, meaning that the magazine needs to cater equally to both genres, ensuring broad, diverse content. As far as age goes, the majority of readers lie in the 25-34 age bracket. The breakdown is: 18-2422%25-34 38%35-44 31%44+ 9%The research, therefore, does not account for those under 18 buying the magazine, and indicated a reasonably even age distribution, with some emphasis towards those in the workforce, at postgraduate age onwards. Due to the price and nature of the items in the magazine, high fashion being an expensive industry, 82% of the readership lies in the ABC1 demographic, with emphasis on B and C1. The breakdown is: A 8%B 33%C1 41%C2 9%D 5%E 4%

4. cover Logo: the use of the sideways logo gives the magazine its trademark icon, the wink. The colour is again bold and bright and a summary of the issue’s theme is given. On the left third for exposure. The wink can be decoded to represent irreverence towards traditional values, fun and humour. Selling line: The phrase gender agenda uses rhyme andplays on words to be memorable and catchy Main image: the main image, like the colour, appears playful, but forward, bold and extreme. Despite this, it is still an attractive young female featured, and therefore is right to attract buyers, and is not too far from the standard image. Cover line: “Good girl gone bad” intrigues the reader, as everyone likes to see something unexpected and new and the idea of going bad makes it seem dangerous and exciting. Colour: use of bright, luminous colours and change of the logo colour to match makes the model seem more fun and also perhaps childlike and also attracts the eye. Pink relates to gender agenda?

5. contents 110 Step 1: Follow Your Own Path i-D meets up with Rinko Kikuchi120 Step 2: Live Healthy Representing a new breed of body conscious supermodel130 Step 3: Release Your Stress Photography Collier Schorr Styling David Vandewal 140 Step 4: Perfect Your Look Collier Schorr meets Creative Director at Chanel Make-Up, Peter Phillips, to discuss cosmetics, make-up as art and Catherine Deneuve.146 Step 5: Learn What Suits Charlie Porter engages Junya Watanabe in a frank exchange about what menswear and tradition means to the Comme des Garçons designer. 154 Step 6: Never Regret Photography Richard Bush Styling Sarah Richardson164 Step 7: Originate Never Imitate Director and visual artist Floria Sigismondi and lead vocalist of Living Things Lillian Berlin discuss their marriage, and strut their stuff for the camera172 Step 8: Like What You Do Photography Kayt Jones 182 Step 9: Shape Your Body Paul Tierney meets French porn star Francois Sagat190 Step 10: Life Is Good Photography Tung Walsh Styling Erika Kurihara 198 Step 11: Learn From Mistakes Discreet, dark and desirable, Rick Owens is the ultimate design decadent. 204 Step 12: Be Comfortable In The Skin You’re In Hear Kermit discuss his love of fashion, i-DANDY, i-DARE, i-DUCK, i-DIVE28 Your body is your canvas, don’t leave it bare. Quiff that hair, kohl those eyes and paint that face, as this season beauty trends are to be worn loud and proud. 212 Factory Revisited: Special Drag Queens, studs, hustlers, popstars, heiresses, artists, art tits; anything went at Andy Warhol’s Factory.220 Reviews The cream of this month’s print, art, music and film.226 i-Con Pete Burns Dead Or Alive singer Pete Burns blurs gender distinctions and sexuality; here he talks to i-D about plasticsurgery, Wife Swap, and his love of car crash celebrities. First to be mentioned in the contents is the cover star, indicating it to be used as the main attraction to readers. Possibly some degree of surveillance involved, as in many features and interviews, to discover more about people the readers may look up to The majority of the features appeal to the personal identity aspect of uses and gratifications, as being a fashion magazine, people will often be reading it to try and alter their own style and to make themselves appear more fashionable. This is why the contents are posed like a mantra for self fulfilment almost. It identifies the readers’ need for identity, which obviously ties in with the magazine’s name. Reviews inform, as do some aspects, though most of the contents are designed to entertain, being editiorials and interviews.

6. relationship with reader The contents, as mentioned before indicate some of the writers’ relationship with the readers, with the theme in the listing being a kind of twelve step plan on being more successful. This shows the writers attempting to influence the reader opinions, and serving as a kind of guru figure in that sense. The trendsetter relationship is an obvious one, though it is an important angle, just aloof enough to be cool, but still able to be personal and frank with readers. To do this, informal language is used such as the description of porn star Francois Sagat, saying “At 28 he’s in his prime,: flawless skin, liquid brown Bambi eyes and a straight Gallic arrow of a nose – all very Asterix.” This aspect of the relationship also extends to when giving information, in the kind of casual instructor role. For example, in interviews “Not only is Pierre dressing the most manicured feet across continents, he’s also working as footwear consultant at both Balenciaga and Hermés…” This has the impact of being informative, retains the aspect of influence and still remains relatively informal and friendly. All in all, you get the feeling that the writer is like the cool friend with all the answers, and big influence rather than a starchy attitude as in many writers in published media.

7. adverts Warchild are a charity who are involved in international child protection, and this advert serves to grab attention for the cause with simple, bold words which stand out well from the other elements of the magazine. Something of an odd one out, it seems to not appeal to the need for the latest items, but possibly relates to the trend of the rich and famous wanting to be seen supporting charities and giving back to the community. So, those who aspire to be like the famous will want to do the same. ConverseCost: £6930 Chanel fine jewelleryCost: £6930 Chanel fine jewellery will obviously be geared towards a more high society audience, with the price of the items being very high and the designer name well regarded. This will aim to the aspirational as a social indicator, and the ideal lifestyle of being able to buy items like these without concern for money. The Converse advert serves to look trendy, showing the lineage of influential figures in modern music all wearing the shoe, indicating again, to be looking towards those who aspire to be like their idols, this time directly though, with the message, perhaps, being “If Converse are good enough for ____ they must be great” WarchildCost: £3870

8. website The webpage is very much in line with the image of the magazine, with its inclusion of covers in places, including the flipbook style preview of the latest issue in the top right corner, and the dark background mixed with whites and luminous colour There is no sign of “web 2.0” in the website.

9. competitors GQ DAZED AND CONFUSED GQ is probably only a rival to 49% of i-D’s readership, being entirely based around male style, fashion and grooming.This also explains the more suggestive shots which occasionally can be found on covers, which strike a balance which edges more towards seduction than groundbreaking style as i-D would be seen to attempt.However, the magazine does often feature similar types of names as i-D, such as Jean-Paul Gaultier as on the home page of their website, which seems to exist almost in parallel with the magazine, not quite linked to the same extent as i-D’s page.Also, the magazine is not independent, being published by Conde Nast Dazed and Confused is a London based fashion, music and art magazine.Its main focus, like i-D seems to be on style, meaning it can be considered a competitor, and is also an independently published British based magazine. The type of adverts used also seem similar to i-D’s target market, as shown by the Armani watch below.Dazed does seem to deviate more from fashion and style articles than i-D does, however.

10. representation • From reading through the magazine and analysing images etc I have found: • Race of those featured largely white, but with some examples of Asian (as on cover) and Black models being used showing no policy of exclusion. • Body shape is consistently thin or muscular. Nobody in the magazine approached overweight. • Gender was balanced and equal as the topic of the issue was gender agenda and so to not make it equal would appear odd. • Most adverts seem to appeal to the aspirer, with most of those being represented being middle class and hipster, with enough money to buy the clothes featured, and/or enough influence to be considered trendy enough to be placed in the magazine, such as photographers and designers. This is reinforced by the adverts chosen to appear, with most being for expensive designer objects. • The people featured are all models or the famous, as opposed to regular people as in some lifestyle magazines. • People in the magazine are encouraged to disregard gender roles and to question social standings, particularly with the cross dressing photo shoot. • Most of the coding in images shows people to be wild and cheeky, such as the shots of designers biting models feet and pulling a face, or moody and dark, such as a shoot featuring the lead singer of punk band Gallows