Textiles Semester Test

1. Textiles Semester Test

2. Patterns and their Parts • Pattern Envelope • Front of the envelope – drawing or photos of the design • Several garment views • Lists pattern number, size, and price • Indicates if “easy”

3. Reverse side of pattern envelope • Shows how the garment looks from the back • Lists amount of fabric and notions needed

4. Guide Sheet • Guide sheet – gives step-by-step information for cutting, marking and sewing • Has cutting layouts and general information • Shows hot to lengthen or shorten a pattern

5. Guide sheet • Has sewing directions and pictures

6. Cutting layout – diagram that shows how to arrange pattern pieces on fabric • Easier to recognize and find the pattern pieces you need • Select the diagram that matches your view, pattern size, and fabric width

7. Sewing directions • Step-by-step appear on the back of the guide • Fabric key – shows how shading and texture indicate right and wrong sides of fabric and interfacing or lining

8. Pattern pieces • Each piece is marked with a number or a letter and with a specific name (collar sleeve) • Number of fabric pieces to be cut is printed on the pattern piece • Symbols and lines guide you during cutting and sewing

9. Pattern Preparation • 1. Remove the entire pattern from the envelope. • 2. on the guide sheet, circle the cutting layout you’ll use. • 3. select the pattern pieces for the view you’re sewing

10. 4. Fold the rest of the pattern pieces and put them back into the envelope • 5. Cut apart any pattern pieces printed together on one large piece of tissue paper • 6. Write your name on the guide sheet, pattern envelope, and pattern pieces

11. 7. smooth out pattern pieces. Iron if necessary • 8. on a multi-sized pattern, mark cutting lines for your size with a felt-tip pen

12. Preparing Fabric • Preshrink Fabric • Wash or dry-clean the fabric to prevent or minimize later shrinkage • Helps remove some fabric finishes that cause stitching problems

13. Fabrics • Washable • Machine wash, tumble dry • Hand-washable • Fold the fabric and place in hot or warm water for 30 minutes, tumble dry or dry flat • Fabrics to be dry-cleaned • Take to the cleaners or self-service dry cleaner

14. Straightening the Grain • Off grain – when crosswise and lengthwise yarns are not at right angles • If not straightened the finished garment may twist or pull • To straighten, pull on the true bias (pg 491) • Refold and check for straightness

15. Pressing Fabric • Press to remove all wrinkles • Check to be sure center fold can be pressed out

16. Laying Out the Pattern • Cutting layout shows how to fold fabric • Most fabric is folded with the right side in • Pattern pieces are placed on the wrong side of the fabric • Stripes, plaids, and prints should be folded right side out to match designs

17. Lengthwise fold – fold fabric in half lengthwise with right sides together • Crosswise fold- fold fabric in half crosswise with right sides together • Double fold – fold fabric twice along the lengthwise grain, right sides together • Partial fold – fold fabric on the lengthwise grain, right sides together, only wide enough to fit one pattern piece

18. After folding fabric, smooth out any wrinkles by pulling both layers of fabric at the ends or sides • Work on large, hard surface so the full width of the fabric can be laid out

19. Pinning Pattern Pieces • Lay out all pattern pieces in the same position shown in the cutting layout • Most pieces are placed printed side up on fabric • Pattern pieces that are shaded on layout should be placed with the printed side down

20. An arrow or “place-on-fold” bracket indicates the grain line • Place every pattern piece exactly on the proper grain line • Never tilt or angle the pieces to fit • Place pins at right angles to the pattern edge, making sure the points don’t go past the cutting line

21. 1. start with large pattern pieces that go on the fold. Place the pattern fold line exactly along the fabric fold. Pin corners and then the remaining edges. • 2. next, pin pattern pieces that have a grain-line arrow. Place a pin at the end of each arrow, pinning through all fabric layers

22. 3. count the number of pieces on the cutting layout and compare to the number on the fabric. • 4. double-check your layout.

23. Special Lay out • Napped fabric – place all pattern pieces in the same direction • Plaids – can be even or uneven, depending on the repeat of the lines, even plaids are the same in both vertical and horizontal directions, use without-nap layout; uneven plaids, use with-nap layout

24. Stripes – even stripes, use a without-nap layout; uneven use a with-nap layout • Directional prints- use a with-nap layout. Match designs at seam lines • Border prints – place the pattern pieces on the crosswise grain

25. Cutting & Marking • Use bent-handled shears • Hold fabric flat on cutting surface • Cut directionally with the grain line • Some patterns have a symbol printed on the cutting line or stitching line • Follow the correct cutting line on a multi-sized pattern • Mark the cutting lines for your own size with felt-tip pen to make them easier to follow, or trim the patter pieces

26. Cut carefully around notches • Use the tip of the shears and cut outwards • Cut double and triple notches together • Leave pattern pieces pinned to the fabric until you’re ready to sew • Transfer construction marking to fabric before unpinning • Save all fabric scraps • Use them to test marking methods, type and length of stitches

27. What to Mark • Transfer marks to fabric • Darts, pleats, tucks, dots, and placement lines, buttonholes, buttons, pockets and trims

28. Marking Methods • Fabric-marking pens • 1. stick pins straight through the pattern and both fabric layers at all marking points • 2. start at an outside edge of the pattern piece and carefully separate the layers enough to place an ink dot where the pin is inserted • 3. repeat, working toward the center of the garment section until all symbols are marked

29. Tracing Wheel & Paper • Quick and useful for most fabrics • Tracing paper has a waxy surface and available in different colors • Papers that make permanent marks • Only on wrong side of fabric • Papers that make removable marks • Right or wrong side

30. Tailor’s Chalk • Mark on the wrong side • 1. push a pin through both layers of fabric at each symbol • 2. make a chalk mark at each pin on top layer of fabric • 3. turn the fabric over and mark the other layer at each pin • Brushes off carefully

31. Machines & Equipment • Universal or general-purpose • Sharp point, for most knitted and woven fabrics • Ballpoint • Knits and stretch fabrics, slightly rounded tip

32. Stretch • Prevent skipped stitches, synthetic suede, elastic knitwear • Leather • Wedge-shaped point, pierces leather, vinyl • Twin • Decorative stitching

33. Needle Sizes • Range from 6 (very delicate • 20 ( for heavy fabrics) • Lower the number the finer the needle • Size 9 or 11 = fine, lightweight fabrics • Size 14 = medium weight • Size 16 = heavier or thick fabrics

34. Thread • Fine thread for lightweight fabrics • Heavier thread for heavier fabrics

35. Changing Needles • 1. Raise the needle to the highest position by turning the hand wheel • 2. Loosen the thumbscrew on the needle clamp. • 3. Remove the old needle, being sure to notice its position. The long groove on the needle should face the side from which you thread the needle.

36. 4. Insert the top of the needle firmly up into the needle clamp. • 5. tighten the thumbscrew securely

37. Preparing Bobbin • Bobbin = holds the bottom thread in the sewing machine • Must be removed from the bobbin case to be wound

38. Winding Bobbin Loosen the hand-wheel knob to stop movement of the needle. • Insert the end of the thread through a hole in the bobbin. • Wrap the thread securely around the bobbin several times. • Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder. • Hold the end of the thread until the bobbin starts winding.

39. Tips • Make sure bobbin winds evenly • Gently guide it with your finger • Cut thread with scissors and remove bobbin

40. Insert bobbin in the opening in the slide plate • Pull bobbin thread gently to see whether there is slight tension • Tightness of thread

41. Tension Discs • Be sure to check the threading of tension discs • Pull thread gently to double check • Thread should pull with slight resistance

42. Thread Guides • Location of the last thread guide tells you in which direction to thread the needle • If on right, thread right • If on left, thread left • If in front, thread to back

43. Raising Bobbin Thread • Hold the needle thread in your left hand • With your right hand, turn the hand wheel slowly towards you until the needle enters the throat plate • Continue turning until the needle rises and brings up a loop of the bobbin thread. • Pull up the loop to bring the end of the bobbin thread out • Pull both thread ends under the presser foot and to the back

44. Adjusting Machine • Lockstitch = needle thread intertwines with the bobbin thread • Creates a stitch that doesn’t pull out or unravel when a loop or loose thread is pulled

45. Adjusting Stitch Type • Straight stitch most common • Decorative stitches available

46. Adjusting Stitch Length • Number from 6 – 20 which indicate number of stitches per inch • Stitch length should match fabric type and stitching purpose

47. Regular stitching = choose a medium length stitch for most fabrics (10 – 12 stitches per inch) • For lightweight use a shorter stitch • Machine Basting = longest stitch possible for easy removal • Reinforcement stitching= very short stitches to prevent stretching or pulling in certain areas (15 to 20 stitches per inch)

48. Adjusting Tension • Please don’t touch the tension discs  • Tension is seen in your sample stitches on a double layer of fabric • Adjustments are done by the teacher

49. Adjusting Pressure • Presser foot- holds fabric against the feed dog, which moves the fabric forward • Some machines have pressure regulators, ours do not

50. Using the Sewing Machine • Guidelines on Stitching • 1. before you start to stitch, raise the take-up lever and the needle to the highest position. • 2. place the fabric under the presser foot. Put the bulk of the fabric to the left of the needle