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Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single jersey fabric dimension & properties

Presentation about 'Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single jersey fabric dimension & properties'

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Effect of stitch length on Lycra And Without Lycra plain Single jersey fabric dimension & properties

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  1. Prepared By : Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshir ID: 2010000400008 13thBatch (session 2009-2013) Department : Wet Processing Technology Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com Blog : www. Textilelab.blogspot.com (visit) Southeast University Department Of Textile Engineering I/A 251,252 Tejgaon Dhaka Bangladesh

  2. INTRODUCTION Knitted fabrics are the preferred structures in athletic wear in which demand for comfort is a key requirement. Fabric properties are an important matter to produced athletic fabrics. In this study, an experimental work is presented to determine the effects of stitch length on plain single jersey cotton fabric with lycra and without lycra. The experimental work is going through various tests, test results, graphical representation and remarks on the test. Dimensional properties, pilling resistance, spirality, fabric thickness, and some color fastness test are analyzed to get information about the effect of stitch length on plain single jersey fabric. From the analyses of variance, it is seen that the effects of stitch length on the dimension and properties of the Plain single fabrics inspected are highly significant.

  3. SAMPLE FABRIC PRODUCTION Fabric Type Yarn Type Yarn Count Stitch Length : Plain Single Jersey (Lycra & without Lycra) : Cotton (combed) : 26 Ne, 70D : 2.76mm, 2.97mm, 3.15mm Machine Parameters Brand name of m/c : Jiunn long (Taiwan) Machine Diameter No of Feeder Needle Gauge No of Needle Machine speed : 26 inch : 78 : 24 : 1968T : 26 rpm

  4. DIFFERENT TESTS & CALCULATION Tests on Grey Sample Fabric  Spirality Test.  Pilling Test.  GSM Calculation.  CPI, WPI & Fabric Width Calculation.  Dimensional Stability Test.  Fabric Thickness Test. Tests on Dyed Sample Fabric  Color fastness to Rubbing  Color Fastness to Wash  Color Fastness to Perspiration

  5. SPIRALITY Spirality can be defined as a fabric condition resulting when the knitted wales and courses are angularly displaced from that ideal perpendicular angle. In other words, Spirality" arises from twist stress in the constituent’s yarns of plain fabric, causing all loops to distort and throwing the fabric wales and courses into an angular relationship other than 90 degree.

  6. IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON SPIRALITY Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra 10.00% 9.50% Stitch No. of Feeders Spirality % 9.00% Length(mm) 8.10% 8.00% 2.76 78 6.15 2.97 78 8.10 7.00% 6.15% 3.15 78 9.5 6.00% spirality % 5.00% 4.00% 3.00% 2.00% 1.00% 0.00% 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length

  7. Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra 4.00% Stitch No. of Feeders Spirality % 3.50% Length(mm) 3.50% 2.76 78 2.15 3.10% 3.00% 2.97 78 3.10 3.15 78 3.50 2.50% 2.15% spirality % 2.00% 1.50% 1.00% 0.50% 0.00% 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length

  8. PILING Pilling is a surface defect of textiles caused by wear, and is considered unsightly. It happens when washing and wearing of fabrics causes loose fibres to begin to push out from the surface of the cloth, and, over time, abrasion causes the fibres to develop into small spherical bundles, anchored to the surface of the fabric by protruding fibres that haven't broken. Fig: Pilling of Fabric

  9. IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON PILLING Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra 5 4.5 4.5 Stitch Length(mm) Pilling Scale Grade (out of 5) 4 2.76 4/5 3.5 Pilling Scale Grade 2.97 3 3 3 3.15 2/3 2.5 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length Graph: Graphical relationships between stitch length and pilling (lengthwise)

  10. 4.5 Stitch Pilling Scale Grade (out of 5) 4 Length(mm) 4 2.76 4 3.5 2.97 3 3.15 3 3 3 Pilling Scale Grade 2.5 Table: Impact of stitch length on pilling (Widthwise) 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length Graph: Graphical relationships between stitch length and pilling (widthwise)

  11. Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra 4.5 4 4 4 4 Stitch Length (mm) Pilling Scale Grade (out of 5) 3.5 2.76 4 3 Pilling Scale Grade 2.97 4 3.15 4 2.5 Table: Impact of stitch length on pilling (lengthwise) 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length Graph: Graphical relationships between stitch length and pilling (lengthwise)

  12. 4.5 Stitch Length (mm) Pilling Scale Grade (out of 5) 4 4 4 4 2.76 4 3.5 2.97 4 3 Pilling Scale Grade 3.15 4 2.5 Table: Impact of stitch length on pilling (Widthwise) 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length Graph: Graphical relationships between stitch length and pilling (Widthwise)

  13. GSM The GSM of fabric is one kind of specification of fabric which is very important for a textile engineer for understanding and production of fabric. ‘GSM’ means ‘Gram per square meter’ that is the weight of fabric in gram per one square meter. By this we can compare the fabrics in unit area which is heavier and which is lighter. There are two formulas for calculating the GSM of a knitted fabric Course per inch X Stitch length X 39.37 X 39.37 X Tex GSM = ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1000 X 1000 And WPI X CPI X SL (mm) GSM = ----------------------------- X 0.9155 Count (Ne)

  14. IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON FABRIC GSM Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra & with Lycra 300 Stitch Length (mm) GSM Stitch Length (mm) GSM Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra 250 240 234 220 200 2.76 152 2.76 240 152 141 150 2.97 141 2.97 234 127 Without lycra 3.15 127 3.15 220 With Lycra GSM 100 50 0 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length

  15. COURSES PER INCH Courses per inch mean how many numbers of courses are present in one inch. It is also very important for calculation of knitted fabric GSM. WALES PER INCH Wales per inch means how many numbers of wales are present in one inch, it is very important for calculation of knitted fabric GSM and fabric properties. Calculation of Fabric Width We calculated the fabric width by using following formula – Total no of Wales/Total no of needle Fabric Width (open width) = --------------------------------------------- WPI

  16. IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON CPI, WPI & FABRIC WIDTH Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra 80 75.7 70.3 67.9 Stitch Length (mm) CPI WPI Fabric Width (Inch 70 60 54 2.76 54 29 67.9 48 50 CPI,WPI&F.W 44 2.97 48 28 70.3 40 3.15 44 26 75.7 CPI WPI 29 28 30 F.W 26 20 10 0 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length

  17. Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra 80 Stitch Length (mm) CPI WPI Fabric Width (Inch) 70 67 64 60 59.6 60 2.76 67 37 53.2 56.2 53.2 2.97 64 35 56.2 59.6 50 3.15 60 33 CPI,WPI& F.W 40 37 CPI 35 33 WPI 30 F.W 20 10 0 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length

  18. DIMENSIONAL STABILITY This is a test method for measuring the changes in fabric dimension when subjected to changing humidity conditions. The dimensional stability relating properties, namely relaxation shrinkage and hygral expansion, are measured. Relaxation shrinkage is defined as the percentage change in dry dimensions of fabric measured after 30-minute relaxation in water at room temperature. Hygral expansion is defined as the percentage change in dimensions of relaxed fabric from wet condition to dry condition.

  19. IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON FABRIC DIMENSIONAL STABILITY Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra 25% Stitch Length (mm) Lengthwise Shrinkage (%) Widthwise Shrinkage (%) 20% 20% 18% 2.76 5 20 Shrinkage Percentage 2.97 6 18 15% 3.15 5 11.5 11.50% L.W.S 10% W.W.S 6% 5% 5% 5% 0% 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length

  20. Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra 20% Stitch Length (mm) Lengthwise Shrinkage (%) Widthwise Shrinkage (%) 18% 18% 16% 16% 2.76 14 11 14% 14% 2.97 16 13 13% Shrinkage Percentage 3.15 6 18 12% 11% 10% L.W.S 8% W.W.S 6% 6% 4% 2% 0% 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length

  21. FABRIC THICKNESS Fabric thickness is defined as perpendicular distance through the fabric, which determines the dimension between the upper and lower side of the fabric Fig: Fabric Thickness Tester

  22. IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON FABRIC THICKNESS Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra 0.6 Stitch Length (mm) Fabric Thickness (mm) 0.5 0.5 0.47 2.76 0.5 2.97 0.47 0.38 Fabric Thickness (mm) 0.4 3.15 0.38 0.3 0.2 0.1 0 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length

  23. Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra 0.8 Stitch Length (mm) Fabric Thickness (mm) 0.7 0.7 2.76 0.70 0.57 0.6 2.97 0.57 0.52 Fabric Thickness (mm) 3.15 0.52 0.5 0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1 0 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length (mm)

  24. IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON COLOR FASTNESS TO RUBBING Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra 5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Stitch Length (mm) Grey Scale Grade( Dry) Grey Scale Grade( Wet) 4 3.5 2.76 4/5 3 3 Grey Scale Grade 2.97 4/5 2/3 3 2.5 2.5 3.15 4/5 2/3 2.5 Dry 2 Wet 1.5 1 0.5 0 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length

  25. Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra 5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Stitch Length (mm) Grey Scale Grade( Dry) Grey Scale Grade( Wet) 4.5 4 2.76 4/5 2 2.97 4/5 2/3 3.5 3.15 4/5 1/2 Grey Scale Grade 3 2.5 2.5 Dry 2 2 Wet 1.5 1.5 1 0.5 0 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length

  26. IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON COLOR THE FASTNESS TO WASH Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra 5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Stitch Length (mm) Grey Scale Grade 4.5 2.76 4/5 4 2.97 4/5 3.5 3.15 4/5 Grey Scale Grade 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length

  27. Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra 5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Stitch Length (mm) Grey Scale Grade 4.5 2.76 4/5 4 2.97 4/5 3.5 3.15 4/5 Grey Scale Grade 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length

  28. IMPACT OF FABRIC STITCH LENGTH ON COLOR THE FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION Plain S/J Fabric without Lycra 4.5 4 4 Stitch Length (mm) Grey Scale Grade (Alkaline) 2/3 3/4 2 Grey Scale Grade (Acid) 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 2.76 2.97 3.15 3/4 4 3/4 3 Grey Scale Grade 2.5 2.5 2 Alkaline 2 Acid 1.5 1 0.5 0 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length

  29. Plain S/J Fabric with Lycra 4 Stitch Length (mm) 2.76 2.97 3.15 Grey Scale Grade (Alkaline) 3/4 2 2/3 Grey Scale Grade (Acid) 3/4 2 3/4 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3 2.5 2.5 Grey Scale Grade 2 2 2 Alkaline Acid 1.5 1 0.5 0 2.76 2.97 3.15 Stitch Length

  30. CONCLUSION The contributions and incessant efforts of all the group members to complete the project report are highly appreciative. The challenging environment in 21stcentury demands that textile education should be meaningful and responsive to develop a mechanism to produce dynamic and technically competitive human resource in order to meet the challenges of the global world. Right and effective strategies needs to be adopted for affecting quality improvements in textile education thereby making it relevant and useful not only for the sustained growth and development of the textile institutes but also in serving the societies in a progressive way.

  31. http://www.textilelab.blogspot.com (Visit ) My Facebook Textile related Pages 1. Yarn Manufacturing Technology Link:http://www.facebook.com/pages/Yarn-Manufacturing-Technology/485014954866808 2. Fabric Manufacturing Technology Link:http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fabric-Manufacturing-Technology/459520217425605 3. Garments Manufacturing Technology Link:http://www.facebook.com/pages/Garments-Manufacturing-Technology/472364799463126 3. Wet processing Technology Link:http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wet-Processing-Technology-Dyeing-/468645219825404 4. Fashion-Design-and-Technology Link:http://www.facebook.com/pages/Fashion-Design-and- Technology/587655294583875?ref=ts&fref=ts

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