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Stich n sesm types with description

stitch n seam types

sheshir
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Stich n sesm types with description

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  1. Stitch Types

  2. PREPARED BY ©right Name : MAZADUL HASAN SHESHIR ID: 2010000400008 Batch: 13th Batch (Session 2009-2013) Department: Wet Processing Technology Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com (FB) Blog: www. Textilelab.blogspot.com Southeast University,Bangladesh Department of Textile Engineering

  3. Stitch Types Lockstitch Chainstitch Oscillating shuttle Rotary hook * Domestic * Industrial Rotary looper Oscillating looper * Button Stitching * 2T- chain Overlock Coverseam

  4. Stitch Type 301 Lockstitch N B

  5. Lock Stitch

  6. Stitch Type 301  Lockstitch, has a needle thread and a bobbin thread.  Stitch is formed by a needle thread introduced from one side of the material interlacing with an under thread  The needle & under thread cross over in the middle of the fabric  Most common of the stitch types  Does not unravel easily,  Poor extention.  Stitch is reversible  Uses least amount of thread  Excellent seam security  Lower productivity  More susceptible to thread breaks  Used in wide range of end uses.

  7. Stitch Type 304 ZIG ZAG ONE STEP LOCKSTITCH N B

  8. Stitch Type 304 Lockstitch zig zag, has a needle thread and a bobbin thread.  Has same benefits as 301 viz: security of seam reversibility wont unravel easy  Has better extension due to the zig zag configuration.  Used mostly on lingerie , foundation wear and underwear, where a secure seam with good extension is required.

  9. Stitch Type 304 ZIG ZAG ONE STEP LOCKSTITCH

  10. Stitch Type 401 Two Thread Chain Stitch N L

  11. Two Thread Chain Stitch

  12. Stitch Type 401  Two thread chainstitch - one needle thread and one looper thread.  Needle thread loop is interconnected with two loops of one underthread  The needle & underthreads cross over on the underside of the fabric  Higher seam strength and seam stretch than a lock stitch  Higher productivity  Seam runback (unraveling) is a big problem  Seam security not as good as lock stitch  Increased bulk under the seam  Used for joining trouser panels, riser seams and felled seams in jeans.

  13. Stitch Type 401 Two Thread Chain Stitch

  14. Stitch Type 404 ZIG ZAG TWO THREAD CHAIN STITCH N L

  15. Stitch Type 406 Cover Seam Stitch (2 Needle & 1 Looper Thread) N1 N2 L

  16. Stitch Type 406  Cover seam stitch, has 2 needle and 1 looper thread.  Excellent extention, easy to unravel.  Used for :  T shirts/knits sleeves and bottom hems.  stitching of belt loops in jeans & trousers.  Gives very good extension, and is mostly used to cover a raw edge in the fabric after the fabric has been hemmed etc.

  17. Stitch Type 406 Cover Seam Stitch (2 Needle & 1 Looper Thread)

  18. Stitch Type 407 Cover Seam Stitch (3 Needle & 1 Looper Thread) N1 N2 N3 L

  19. Stitch Type 407 Cover Seam Stitch (3 Needle & 1 Looper Thread)

  20. Stitch Type 504 3 Thread Overlock (1 needle & 2 Looper Threads) N L1 L2

  21. 3 Thread Overlock (1 needle & 2 Looper Threads)

  22. Stitch Type 504  3 thread overlock, has 1 needle thread and 2 looper threads.  Has excellent extention and does not unravel easily.  Used for serging to stop fabric fraying, and for joining 2 or more plies together.  However this is not a tight stitch and seam security could be a problem.  Bulky seams

  23. Stitch Type 504 3 Thread Overlock (1 needle & 2 Looper Threads)

  24. Stitch Type 512 4 Thread Overlock (2 needle & 2 Looper Threads) N1 N2 L1 L2

  25. Stitch Type 512  Mock safety stitch, has 2 needle and 2 looper threads  Very good extension, will not unravel easy.  Side seams, join panels, attach sleeves, join shoulders etc. on knitted fabrics, tee shirts, polos.  Side seams, join panels, etc. on swimwear and on aerobic wear, cycle pants etc.  Where there is a need for a secure seam that needs very good extension.  512 is more secure than 504 (3 thread overlock) but less secure than 516 (5 thread safety stitch)

  26. Stitch Type 512 4 Thread Overlock (2 needle & 2 Looper Threads)

  27. Stitch Type 514 4 Thread Overlock (2 needle & 2 Looper Threads) N1 N2 L1 L2

  28. Stitch Type 514 4 Thread Overlock (2 needle & 2 Looper Threads)

  29. Stitch Type 516 5 Thread Overlock (2 needle & 3 Looper Threads) N1 L1 N2 L2 L3

  30. Stitch Type 516  5 thread safetystitch, has 2 needle threads and 3 looper threads. A combination stitch  Has two stitch types in one, 504 and 401. Good extention, very strong. If one fails the other can absorb the strain  Used for  joining panels where seam stretch is critical  or joining seams where security of seam is important. Jeans (inside legs) side seams and sleeves on shirts, overalls etc.  High seam elasticity

  31. Stitch Type 516 5 Thread Overlock (2 needle & 3 Looper Threads)

  32. Stitch Type 602 Cover Seam Stitch, Top and Bottom (2 Needle, 1 Looper and 1 Spreader Thread) S N1 N2 L

  33. Stitch Type 602  Top and Bottom cover seam stitch, has 2 needle, 1 looper and 1 spreader thread.  Used : as a stitch to cover the joint between binding and the garment (necks of knitts) as a decorative stitch on night gowns & sweat shirts for stitching legs of aerobic wear and straps on swimwear. to stitch/attach binding to knitted night gowns. Sweat shirts etc.  Has excellent extension, when a small stitch is used excellent seam cover is achieved.

  34. Stitch Type 602 Cover Seam Stitch, Top and Bottom (2 Needle, 1 Looper and 1 Spreader Thread)

  35. Stitch Type 605 Cover Seam Stitch, Top and Bottom (3 Needle, 1 Looper and 1 Spreader Thread) S N1 N2 N3 L

  36. Stitch Type 605  Utilizes 3 needle threads, one looper and one cover thread.  Used in knitwear, lingerie & under garments.  High seam elasticity.  Flat, comfortable seams - ideal for 'next to skin' sewing applications.  Can also be used as a decorative seam  Very high thread consumption.

  37. Stitch Type 605 Cover Seam Stitch, Top and Bottom (3 Needle, 1 Looper and 1 Spreader Thread)

  38. Stitch Type 607 Cover Seam Stitch, Top and Bottom (4 Needle, 1 Looper and 1 Spreader Thread) S N1 N2 N3 N4 L

  39. Thread Consumption Guideline by Stitch Type Stitch Type Needle to Under Thread Ratio # of Needles Description Ratio 2 Thread Lockstitch 301 2.5 1 1:1 2 Thread Chainstitch 401 5.5 1 1:3 2 Thread Overedge 503 12 1 1.2:1 3 Thread Overedge 504 14 1 1:5 515 4 Thread Safety 17.5 2 1:1.4 516 5 Thread Safety 20 2 1:3.4 607 Flatseam 32 4 1:3.5

  40. Seam Types

  41. Introduction to Seams  A seam can be defined as : the application of a series of stitches or stitch types to one or several layers of material.  8 classes of seams are defined in the ISO classification.  Seams are described as :  flat  superimposed  lapped  bound  ornamental  A seam is loadbearing and should be similar in physical properties to the material being sewn.

  42. Flat Seams Flat Seam In these seams, sometimes called Butt Seams, two fabric edges, flat or folded, are brought together and oversewn with a zig-zag lockstitch, chainstitch or covering stitch (Class 600). The purpose is to produce a join where no extra thickness of fabric can be tolerated at the seam, as in underwear or in foundation garments. The looper thread(s) must be soft, yet strong and the cover thread may be decorative as well as strong.

  43. Superimposed Seams Superimposed Seam These generally start with two or more pieces of material superimposed over each other and joined near an edge, with one or more rows of stitches. There are various types of seams within the SS class. A superimposed seam can be sewn with a stitch 301 or 401 to create a simple seam. The same seam type can also be sewn with stitch class 500 (Overedge stitch) or Combination stitches (i.e. stitch class 516) to create neat load bearing seams for lingerie, shirts, etc.

  44. Lapped Seams Lapped Seam • Two or more plies of material are lapped (i.e. with edges overlapped, plain, or folded) and joined with one or more rows of stitches. • French seaming involves 2 stitching operations with an intervening folding operation - a flat, folded seam with only one row of stitching visible on the top surface, commonly used for rainwear.

  45. Lapped Seams Lapped Seam • The Lap Felled type, involves only one stitching operation - a strong seam with fabric edges protected from fraying. • Commonly used for making up jeans or similar garments.

  46. Bound Seams Bound Seam These are formed by folding a binding strip over the edge of the plies of material and joining both edges of the binding to the material with one or more rows of stitching. This produces a neat edge on a seam exposed to view or to wear.

  47. Ornamental Seams Ornamental Seam A series of stitches along a straight or curved line or following an ornamental design, on a single ply of material. More complex types include various forms of piping, producing a raised line along the fabric surface.

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