Chapter 5

1. Chapter 5 Cured and Smoked Foods

2. Chapter 5 Objectives • Understand the history and purpose of cured and smoked foods • Identify the crucial ingredients for preserving foods • Explain the function of salt in osmosis, dehydration, and fermentation • Describe the role of curing salts in preserving foods • Discuss seasoning and flavoring options for cured and smoked foods • Compare the effects of dry cures and brines • Describe the evolution of brining from a preservation technique to a flavoring technique • Evaluate cold smoking and hot smoking alternatives • Explain the technique of air-drying • Describe the method of preservation in fat

3. Preservation Techniques • Curing and brining • Smoking • Drying • Preserving in fat

4. Ingredients for Preserving Foods • Salt is the basic ingredient used in preserving food • Basic processes in which salt plays an important role: • Osmosis • Dehydration • Fermentation • Denaturing proteins

5. Conditions for Pathogens Pathogens need six conditions to grow: FAT TOM “F” Food: need an energy source “A” Acidity, grow best in low acid environments Most bacteria grow best around neutral pH values (4.9-10) “T” Temperature: grow best between 41F-135F “T” Time: need time, after 4 hours the growth rate is very rapid “O” Oxygen: some need oxygen, some don’t “M” Moisture: need moisture to grow

6. Osmosis • A simple definition states:Osmosis is the movement of a solvent (typically water) through a semi-permeable membrane (the cell walls) in order to equalize the concentration of a solute (typically salt) on both sides of the membrane. • Getting the salt inside the cell, where it can kill off harmful pathogens, is the essence of salt-curing foods. • Salt inhibits the growth of spoilage-causing microorganisms by drawing water out of microbial cells through the process of osmosis.

7. Dehydration • Applying salt to foods can dry them effectively, since the salt tends to attract the free water, making it unavailable to microbes. • Exposure to air or heat for controlled periods allows the water to evaporate, reducing the overall volume and weight of the food.

8. Fermentation • Enzymes ferment the food by breaking down the compounds in these foods into gases and organic compounds. • By increasing the acid levels in the food, enzymes also help to preserve foods, since most harmful pathogens can only thrive when the levels of acids are within a specific pH range. • Salt is important to act as a control on this process, since it affects how much water is available to the enzymes.

9. Denaturing Proteins • Preserving changes the structure of the proteins found in food • This change, known as denaturing, involves the application of heat, acids, salt, or ultraviolet radiation.

10. Denaturing Proteins-cont. • At the molecular level, natural proteins are shaped like coils or springs. When natural proteins are exposed to heat, salt, or acid, they denature—that is, their coils unwind. • When proteins denature, they tend to bond together, or coagulate.

11. Denaturing Proteins-cont. • The strands that make up the protein are encouraged to lengthen or coil, open or close, recombine or dissolve. • Foods that were once soft may become firm, smooth foods may become grainy, translucent foods may become cloudy, etc.

12. Curing Salts: Nitrates and Nitrites • Salt alone does not cure, nitrites cure • Nitrates (NO3) take longer to break down in cured foods than nitrites. • Nitrites(NO2) break down faster, making them appropriate for use in any cured item that will later be fully cooked.

13. Nitrosamine Controversy • When nitrates and nitrites break down in the presence of extreme heat (specifically, when bacon is cooked), potentially dangerous substances known as nitrosamines may form in the food. • Discovered to be carcinogenic in 1956 • The use of nitrates and nitrites is closely regulated.

14. Naturally Occurring Nitrates Many vegetables, especially root vegetables, contain naturally high concentrations of nitrates. • Celery • Collard greens • Cabbage • Spinach • Lettuce In general, levels of nitrates are lower in fruits compared to vegetables • Strawberries • Raspberries • Cherries

15. Tinted Cure Mix, Pink Cure and Insta-cure #1 • TCM (or Insta-cure #1): • 94% sodium chloride (salt) and 6% sodium nitrite • Tinted pink for identification reasons • Recommended ratio: • 4 oz of TCM to each 100 lb of meat • 1 oz of TCM to each 25 lb of meat • 1 tsp of TCM to each 5 lb of meat

16. Insta-cure #2 • Insta-cure #2 contains: • Salt • Sodium nitrite • Sodium nitrate • Pink coloring • Used to make long cure dry and dry-fermented products

17. Seasoning and Flavoring • Salt-cured foods have a harsh flavor unless some additional ingredients are added to the cure • Sugar and other sweeteners, spices, aromatics, and wines can be used.

18. Sweeteners as Seasoning and Flavoring Ingredients • Sweeteners can: • Help overcome the harshness of the salt in the cure • Balance the overall flavor palette • Counteract bitterness in liver products • Help stabilize color in cured meats • Increase water retention (moisture) in finished products • Provide a good nutrient source for fermentation • Types of Sweeteners: • Table sugar • Dextrose • Corn syrup • Brown sugar • Honey • Maple syrup

19. Dextrose Dextrose (corn sugar) is preferred because it has the same ability to mellow the harsh salt and increase moisture as other sweeteners, but without adding an extremely sweet flavor of it’s own. It also dissolves much better than granulated sugar

20. Seasoning and Flavoring Ingredients Spices and herbs that are used to enhance a product’s flavor and give it a particular character include: • Cinnamon • Allspice • Nutmeg • Mace • Cardamom • Dried or fresh chiles • Infusions or essences • Wines • Fruit juices • Vinegars

21. Cures and Brines • Curing is the generic term used to indicate brines, pickling, wet cures, or dry cures. • When salt, in the form of a dry cure or brine, is applied to a food, the food is referred to as cured, brined, pickled, or corned. • Salt brines may also be known as pickles; this is true whether or not vinegar is added to the brine.

22. Dry Cures • Can be as simple as salt alone • More often is a mixture of salt, a sweetener, flavorings and a curing blend • Mixture is packed and rubbed over the surface of the food • This is known as the “Salt Box” method: Dredging the meat in a salt cure so that all sides are evenly coated

23. Dry Cures • Keeping the foods in direct contact with the cure helps to ensure an evenly preserved product • Wrapping in cheesecloth can help the cure to stay in contact with the meat, and allow for moisture loss. • Curing product should be turned and rotated daily to redistribute the dry cure. This is called overhauling.

24. Dry Cure Times for Meats

25. Brines When a dry cure is dissolved in water, it is known as a wet cure, or a brine. • Technique used primarily to retain moisture • Two brining techniques: • Brine-soaking – submerging food in brine (smaller items) • Injecting brine – ensures the brine penetrates completely and evenly (larger items); brine is the equivalent of 10% of item’s weight

26. Brines • Often brines are heated to dissolve the salt, sugar, and infuse any spices or aromatics. • The brine must be cooled COMPLETELY before using.

27. The basic formula for brine has changed because the purpose of brining has evolved. In recent years, meat has begun to be bred leaner to address health concerns throughout the country. Basic Brine: 1 Gallon water 1 cup kosher salt ½ cup sugar Today’s brines are used to add moisture and flavor to meats. Brines

28. Smoke • Smoke has been intentionally applied to foods since it was first recognized that holding meats off the ground near smoky fires did more than dry them more quickly or prevent animals from getting to them. • The hanging foods, treated to a smoke-bath, took on new and enticing flavors. • Basic features of smokers: • Smoke source • Smoke chamber where food is exposed • Circulation • Ventilation

29. Woods Used for Smoking Hardwoods: Produce rich, aromatic smoke • Hickory • Oak • Cherry • Walnut • Chestnut • Apple • Alder • Mesquite • Wood from citrus trees

30. Woods Used for Smoking Softwoods are not viable options: Burn too hot and fast, can taste “sooty” or bitter. • Pine • Cedar • Cypress • Douglas-fir • Hemlock Never use pressure-treated wood under any circumstances—it is deadly poisonous!

31. Alternative Smoking Sources • Teas • Herb stems • Whole spices • Grapevine clippings • Corn husks • Fruit peels • Peanut or hazelnut shells

32. Smoke: The Pellicle • Before cured foods are smoked, they should be allowed to air-dry long enough to form a tacky skin, known as a pellicle. • It acts as a kind of protective barrier for the food, and also plays an important role in capturing the smoke’s flavor and color. • Most foods can be properly dried by placing them on racks or by hanging them on hooks or sticks where air is flowing around all sides.

33. Cold Smoking • Temperature for cold smoking: Below 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Ideal temperature is 55 degrees Fahrenheit. • In this temperature range, foods take on a rich smoky flavor, develop a deep mahogany color, and tend to retain a relatively moist texture. • They are not cooked as a result of the smoking process and proteins do not denature.

34. Cold Smoking Criteria for cold-smoked items: • Type of cure • Duration of cure • Whether or not the food will be air-dried after smoking • Foods that will be cooked by another means after smoking • Cold smoking can be used as a flavor enhancer for many products.

35. Hot Smoking • Temperature for hot smoking: 185 – 250 degrees Fahrenheit • Food exposed to smoke and heat in a controlled environment • Foods are fully cooked, moist and flavorful • Safe to eat without further cooking

36. Smoke-Roasting • Any process that has the attributes of both smoking and roasting • Sometimes referred to as barbecuing or spit-roasting • Equipment that can be used: • Smoke-roaster • Closed wood-fire oven • Barbecue pit • Any smoker that can reach above 250°F • Conventional oven

37. Pan-Smoking • Smoking without using a smoker or smokehouse • Gives smoke-enhanced flavor • Items needed: • 2 disposable aluminum pans • Rack • Sawdust • Drawback: hard to control smoke and flavor may be too intense or bitter

38. Drying • Some items need to be air-dried in lieu of or in addition to smoking • Requires careful balance of temperature and humidity control: 64 degrees F/60% humidity • Items that are preserved by drying: • Serrano ham (cured and cold-smoked first) • Smithfield hams (cured and cold-smoked first) • Prosciutto (cured and dried) • Coppa • Lonza • Beef jerky

39. Preserving in Fat: Classic Methods of Preserving Food Confits • Traditionally bone-in leg portions. Chefs are getting more creative with this technique, using alternatives. • Cured, typically for 12-24 hours • Simmered in rendered fat • Placed in crocks and completely covered in fat • Meats age in fat for 1 week, creates tender product Rillettes • Made by stewing boneless meats in fat or broth with vegetables and aromatics • Cooked meat is blended with fat to make a paste • Stored in crocks or pots, covered with a layer of fat to act as a seal