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T ools of the Shop. MEGR 2299. Machinery General. Never wear long sleeves, never allow long hair to hang free. Always wear safety glasses. A cutting tool is usually an insert, drill bit, end mill, or device that contacts the work in order to remove some of the work in a controlled manner.
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Tools of the Shop MEGR 2299
Machinery General • Never wear long sleeves, never allow long hair to hang free. • Always wear safety glasses. • A cutting tool is usually an insert, drill bit, end mill, or device that contacts the work in order to remove some of the work in a controlled manner. • A machine tool is a device that holds the tool. • Always clean off your machines when done working. • If you don’t know what speeds or feeds you need, please ask. • Never operate a machine that uses coolant, and you notice there isn’t coolant flowing.
Vertical Band Saw • Good for cutting some shape, or curved patterns. • Good for very thin or thick sections. • Good for hard or soft materials – band speed dependent and band material dependent. # of teeth per inch also predicates the material it can cut. • MUST adjust speed for the material you wish to cut. • Always push material through with a piece of wood. • No coolant needed with this machine. • Safety concern is flying chips, and fingers when pushing on stock. • This will cut almost all materials. –adjustable SFM
Horizontal Band Saw • Good for cutting large and heavy sections. • Makes a decent finish, holds a decent line. • Speed is fixed, feed is adjustable. • Feed is set by regulating bleed off air pressure on a cylinder. Feed faster through soft materials, and slow through hard materials. • Thickness of blade, material of blade, and # of teeth per inch on blade will determine your ability to cut materials. • This saw does use coolant, do not attempt to cut without coolant flowing. • Primary safety concerns are fingers when adjusting stock in vise.
Hydraulic Sheer • This tool uses extreme pressure exerted on very hard and sharp dies called blades or shears. • The pressure is so great and so focused the slip planes in the materials crystal structure is found and exploited, or cut. • Limitations = steel .032” max, aluminum .065” max. Beyond these thicknesses will probably cut but wear out the ways and the edges on the dies. • Pay particular attention to your finger placement when pressing the start button.
Drill Press • This tool is designed to hold a bit, and provide a stiff platform to hold your work piece. • It is adjustable in speed, you the operator control the feed. • To figure the speed setting use this: • CS X 4 D • Where: • CS = cutting speed (found in look up chart) • D = Diameter of drill bit • A general principle with the drill press is the larger the drill bit, the slower the speed.
Cold Saw • The cold saw is a saw used to cut hard and thick sections of material. • It cuts slowly and loud. • Its called a cold saw because unlike it’s counter part –(chop box) the material is ambient when cut. • With a sharp blade the finish is excellent, and the line through the stock is excellent. • This tool uses coolant, never operate with out a steady flow. • Pull steady on the handle but do not force. • Low hazard for chip flying, most safety is related to the noise. • Will cut, ferrous and non ferrous materials.
Tube Notcher • This machine tool is designed specifically for notching tubular material. The notches are specific to the diameter of the tool used in chuck. • The primary purpose is notching tubes to make a chassis. • The tool speed is adjustable, the tool is in a fixed position. The stock advances into the spinning tool. Feed rates depend on tool material, lubricant, number of teeth on the tool, tool diameter, stock size and material. • Just like drilling, as tool diameter goes up speed goes down, and as stock harness goes up feed goes down.
Tube Notcher Tools Continuous Fine helical Course helical
Bead Roll • This tool is used to make a bead in light gage sheet metal. • Beads strengthen a open section of sheet metal. • This machine is limited to very light gage steel, .023” thick, or up to .065” aluminum. • The primary safety issue is related to pinching your fingers. • The primary machine limitation is material thickness due to strength of the fixturing and power of the motor.
Tube Bender • This machine is used to non-mandrel bent steel tubing. It uses dies specific to the diameter you would like to bend. • This machine is pneumatic, and reasonably powerful. • We don’t use this much because we have access to a CNC bender. • The primary safety concerns are pinching fingers.
Hand Roll • This tool is full manual, you need to crank the lever to make the rollers move and you also need to guide in your sheet metal. • This machine is limited to thin materials, and slow increases of radial changes. • The primary purposes are to curve sheet metal. Industrial rolls come with power drives and can roll 1 inch plate. • The primary safety concern with a roll is pinching fingers. Since you have to crank it with one hand, its unlikely you will pinch your fingers, but people helping you hold the work material could have their fingers pinched.
Finger Brake • This machine is full manual. You place your part in the jaws and apply the clamp. Lift on the red handles and it will bend the piece of material until you stop pulling. • You can attach a magnetic level to determine the angle you are trying to bend. • The primary safety concern is pinching your fingers by the clamp.
Belt / Disk Sander • This machine is heavily used in the shop, and great for knocking off an edge of saw cut material. • It has (2) powered sanding surfaces to use. 1- a steel backed vertical belt. 2- a steel backed disk. • The limitations depend on the grit, or roughness of the sandpaper that is on it. • It will provide the first level of de-burring necessary, and reasonably dressed edges. • The primary safety concerns are pieces getting hot from sanding and burning your fingers, and slipping off your part and sanding your fingers tips off. • Can sand anything the sandpaper is designed for.
Stone / Wire wheel Stone Wire wheel
Stone / Wire wheel • Stone’s are vitrified and specific to ferrous metals. Never try and grind aluminum with one of these stones. The aluminum gets imbedded into the stone, heats up, expands, then explodes the stone into your face. • Stones come in different grits. This will drastically change the finish after grinding. The stone should be between 1/16th and 1/8th away from the rest. Larger gaps can cause your part to be sucked in. • The wire wheel is good for lightly cleaning threads, removing rust, and some coatings. • Both the stone and the wire wheel are very dangerous, they each can quickly remove skin, and the stone throws sparks and material into the air, usually at your eye ball.
Buffer Wheel • Buffer wheels are specifically designed to de-burr edges without leaving directional grooves and leaving a highly polished finish. • They can de-burr anything hard, metallics and some non-metallics. Wheels come in different grits, and different densities. • They are meant to be a last step in the de-burring process. • Must wear safety glasses, and high quality dust mask. The particulate from the wheel is very bad for your lungs. • Make sure the material your buffing isn’t sensitive to other materials. For example buffing on aluminum when the previous person was buffing on carbon steel. The steel was embedded into the wheel, now is embedded into your aluminum.
Levels of De-Burring • In industry a rough saw cut, laser cut, water jet cut, plasma cut, or flame cut will earn you a bad reputation. Never deliver someone a as cut piece unless the prints instruct you to do so. • De-burring edges can be done with several tools, a simple file can go a long way. The most important thing is the finished edge is consistent with the remainder of the part. For example a fully machined piston would not receive a belt sanded edge as finish prep, but a chassis would. • Here we expect you to ask, and consider the tools available to you. • Proper finishing technique is important to the operation of some parts and a good indicator of your thoroughness and attention to detail. If your going to be a designer, you can specify how you want your edges dressed, there are many options.
De-burring cont. • After saw cutting you can de-burr in many ways, here are a few options. • Saw cut, die grinder with # 80 disk, die grinder with # 120 disk, rough buffer wheel, soft buffer wheel. –(all depending on what your starting with) • If you start with a flame or plasma cut, you may have to stone the edge first, then move through the steps above. Heat cutting leaves a hardened edge.
