Chapter 9

1. Chapter 9 Viennoiserie © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

2. Introduction • Viennoiserie is the term used to described yeast raised breakfast pastry that is enriched and sweetened • Non-Laminated Enriched Dough • Brioche • Cinnamon Rolls • Gibassier • Laminated Dough • Croissant • Danish • Laminated Brioche © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

3. An Introduction to Viennoiserie • Viennoiserie comes from Vienna, which is the first place this type of bread was made • It was brought to France in the 18th century by the Austrian bakers of Marie Antoinette upon her marriage to the future king of France, Louis XVI • Is made throughout the world in all shapes and varieties © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

4. Viennoiserie:Ingredient Selection and Functionality • Choices will have an affect on working properties of the dough and the final product • Basic ingredients include flour, water, salt and yeast • Common additional ingredients may include milk, eggs, sugar and butter © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

5. Viennoiserie:Ingredient Selection and Functionality Flour • Flour must have good quality protein • Suitable for longer fermentation • HRW flour is preferable • HRS may be too high in protein • Leathery mouthfeel, chewy texture • Ash content supports fermentation activity and increases extensibility © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

6. Viennoiserie:Ingredient Selection and Functionality Hydrating Components of Viennoiserie: Water, Milk and Eggs • Water, milk or eggs may be used to link flour’s components • Choice will effect dough properties and flavor. • These ingredients are used to control the dough temperature © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

7. Viennoiserie:Ingredient Selection and Functionality Water • Used commonly in Viennoiserie in conjunction with milk or dry milk powder • Does not add richness, yet is effective at hydrating starch and protein © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

8. Viennoiserie:Ingredient Selection and Functionality Milk • Adds richness, color, nutritional benefits and flavor • Lactose and proteins encourage browning; fat makes dough smoother, finer • May be used as portion of or all of hydration (87%) • Dry milk may be substituted accordingly © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

9. Viennoiserie:Ingredient Selection and Functionality Eggs • Add flavor, color, nutritional value • Contain water, fat and protein (hydrate at 73%) • Using 10-20% water or milk can improve dough hydration and strength • Selection may include fresh, pasteurized liquid eggs or frozen egg products © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

10. Viennoiserie:Ingredient Selection and Functionality Sugar • Range of use varies/ Croissant vs. Brioche • Quantity affects mixing, fermentation, baking temperature and flavor • Quantities higher than 10% FW merit special considerations in mixing and fermentation © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

11. Viennoiserie:Ingredient Selection and Functionality Mixing • Quantities above 10% FW need to be held back and added in later stages of mixing. • Protein must be hydrated first • Sugar weakens the gluten structure and early additions will require longer mixing times • Sugar should be added to dough as it develops © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

12. Viennoiserie:Ingredient Selection and Functionality Flavor • Flavor is dictated by type and quantity of sugar used. • Croissants have approx 12% sugar based on FW but are not “sweet”. • Other sugars may be used to introduce other flavors: brown sugar, honey. © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

13. Viennoiserie:Ingredient Selection and Functionality Color • Primary influence is crust color • Products with higher quantities of sugar should be baked at lower temperatures • Some sugar may change crumb color: brown sugar, molasses or honey © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

14. Viennoiserie:Ingredient Selection and Functionality Texture and Shelf Life • Hygroscopic nature helps to attract and retain moisture • Creates softer crust and crumb • Higher quantities increase shelf life of products • Inverted sugars are sometimes used for this © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

15. Viennoiserie:Ingredient Selection and Functionality • Yeast • Osmotolerant yeast is preferred for sweet yeasted dough. • Yeast strain that functions well under high osmotic pressure. • Ensures consistent fermentation activity and fuller volume of finished products © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

16. Viennoiserie:Ingredient Selection and Functionality Fat • Type of fat used affects working properties, flavor and cost of products. • Selection of fats include: • Butter, margarine, roll-in shortening • Variables include: • Cost, plasticity, melting temperatures, flavor and texture © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

17. Viennoiserie:Ingredient Selection and Functionality Application of Fat in Viennoiserie • Selection of fat is a determining quality for Viennoiserie • Fat is used two ways in Viennoiserie: • In the dough • For lamination © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

18. Viennoiserie:Ingredient Selection and Functionality Fat in the Dough • Non-laminated dough: • Enriches crumb, creates flavor • Laminated dough: • Creates extensibility • Range of usage: 4 – 70% • As % of fat increases above 10%, special mixing precautions must be taken © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

19. Viennoiserie:Ingredient Selection and Functionality Fat in the Dough • Effects • Color, flavor, crumb and shelf life • Mixing Considerations • Improved mix for 4-12% fat (FW) • Intensive mix for ≤ 12% • Delay addition of fat until intensive mix • Fat should be similar consistency to dough © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

20. Viennoiserie:Ingredient Selection and Functionality Fat for Lamination • Type of fat will determine temperature for usage. • “Dry” butter is favored for higher fat content and unique flavor (cultured) © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

21. Viennoiserie:Ingredient Selection and Functionality Fat for Lamination • Quantity of Fat • 25% of dough weight- Croissant • % of fat determines approximate number of folds required for lamination • Temperature and Texture of Fat • Fat must have plasticity • Dough made with manufactured fats must be processes at warmer temperatures © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

22. Viennoiserie Overview of the Laminated Dough Process • 6 critical steps are required for laminated dough • Mixing • First Fermentation • Lamination • Makeup • Final Proof • Baking © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

23. Viennoiserie:Overview of the Laminated Dough Process Laminated Dough: Mixing • Has evolved from simple incorporation to Improved Mix • Hold back sugar until after incorporation • Improved Mix provides better volume • Autolyse is an option • Increases extensibility • DDT is 76°F © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

24. Viennoiserie:Overview of the Laminated Dough Process Laminated Dough: First Fermentation • Typical: 2 hours • 1 hour at room temperature • 1 hour under refrigeration • Dough must cool to limit fermentation and to aid in the lamination process © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

25. Viennoiserie:Overview of the Laminated Dough Process Lamination • The process of enclosing fat in dough and rolling out and folding the dough to create flaky pastries. • Key points include: • The temperature and texture of the dough and fat • The process of rolling, folding and resting the dough • How many folds are given to the dough © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

26. Viennoiserie:Overview of the Laminated Dough Process Preparing the Beurrage • Goal is to create a smooth, even layer of fat to be enclosed in the dough. • This may be done with • A butter press • A dough sheeter • A rolling pin and heavy plastic © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

27. Viennoiserie:Overview of the Laminated Dough Process Dough and Butter Characteristics • Temperature of Dough and Fat • If the fat gets too warm, lamination will suffer • The hardness of the dough and fat should be similar © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

28. Viennoiserie:Overview of the Laminated Dough Process Enclosing the Fat into the Dough • Fat may be enclosed two ways • Placing the fat over 50% of the surface area of the dough • Placing the fat over 2/3rds of the surface area of the dough • Fat and dough layers should be even thickness and cool © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

29. Viennoiserie:Overview of the Laminated Dough Process Sheeting the Dough and the Folding Process • Single vs. Double folds • Resting dough: • 30 minutes between series of folds. • Number of folds: • 3 single folds or 2 double folds are standard for Croissant and Danish • Folds should face out when sheeting © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

30. Viennoiserie:Overview of the Laminated Dough Process Make-up • After final resting time, dough can be sheeted (3 – 3.5 mm), cut and shaped. • Key points for makeup: • Work efficiently so dough remains cold • Relax dough and cut with precision • Shaping techniques vary by shape © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

31. Viennoiserie:Overview of the Laminated Dough Process Egg Washing Pastries • Light coat of eggwash, two times • Enhances crust color • Use caution to not degas the pastry © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

32. Viennoiserie:Overview of the Laminated Dough Process The Final Proof • Final proof is at least 90 minutes due to increased sugar • Proof box at 78°F with 80% humidity is ideal • If proofing temperature is too high, lamination will suffer © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

33. Viennoiserie:Overview of the Laminated Dough Process Baking • After final proof, pastries like Danish are filled as needed. • Steam encourages oven spring • A deck or convection oven may be used with good results • Pastries should be baked quickly to avoid drying the product • Once baked, laminated pastries should be handled minimally as they are fragile © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

34. Viennoiserie Non-Laminated Viennoiserie • Sweet yeasted dough characterized by • Eggs, milk, sugar and butter • Examples include • Brioche, Gibassier, Pannetone, Pan D’Oro • Process is similar to traditional bread • Mixing, fermentation, makeup proofing and baking need to be adapted © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

35. Viennoiserie:Non-Laminated Viennoiserie Mixing • Higher levels of sugar and fat require use of intensive mix • Hold sugar back and add after incorporation slowly • Add malleable fat once dough is fully developed and mix until incorporated © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

36. Viennoiserie:Non-Laminated Viennoiserie First Fermentation • Typically similar to traditional baking. • Dough with higher quantities of fat will benefit from cooling for easier handling • Brioche • Some dough may need a fold or two, depending on the strength of the dough © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

37. Viennoiserie:Non-Laminated Viennoiserie Divide, Pre-Shape and Resting Time • Same theory is applies as for traditional baking • Preshaping may be tighter or looser, depending on dough characteristics • Be cautious to not add too much flour during shaping sticky dough • Resting time may be under refrigeration © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

38. Viennoiserie:Non-Laminated Viennoiserie Shaping • Consider strength of dough when shaping • After shaping, deposit into mold or onto tray • Eggwash as needed © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

39. Viennoiserie:Non-Laminated Viennoiserie Final Proof • May vary from 30 minutes to 15 hours • Sugar, quantity and type of yeast and acidity affect time • Temperature should be between 78-80°F • Higher temperatures may melt fat © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

40. Viennoiserie:Non-Laminated Viennoiserie Baking • Most products receive second eggwash before baking • Baking should be done with stream in deck or convection oven • Once baked, pastries should cool before being handled • Once cool, some pastries may be garnished © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

41. Viennoiserie Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie • Basic process for Viennoiserie can be adapted to include: • Preferments • Autolyse • Retarding techniques • These processes will affect the flavor, appearance and physical qualities of the pastry © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

42. Viennoiserie:Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie Preferments • Provide the benefit of a long first fermentation • Gas and alcohol production • Production of aromas • Acidity production • Increase in strength • Increase in flavor • Increase in shelf life © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

43. Viennoiserie:Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie Prefermented Dough • Origin • Developed to compensate for mediocre quality of bread produced using a straight dough process with a short first fermentation • Description • Could be any kind of dough with at least 3 hours of pre-fermentation • Regular baguette dough is preferable • Application • Wide range of products • Tradition and practicability © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

44. Viennoiserie:Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie Sponge • Origin • Originally, used as preferment in pan bread production in England. Also used in the production of sweet dough • Description • Stiffer preferment (60-63% hydration) • Quantity of yeast calculated based on the fermentation time • Application • Could be used in many different products • Use in sweet dough is preferable © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

45. Viennoiserie:Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie Poolish • Origin • One of the first preferment elaborated with commercial yeast • Description • Liquid preferment (100% hydration) • Quantity of yeast calculated based on the fermentation time • Application • Could be used in many different products © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

46. Viennoiserie:Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie Biga • Origin • Originally, used by Italian bakers to reinforce the strength of the dough • Nowadays, biga is a generic term for a preferment • Description • Very stiff preferment (50% hydration) • 1% of yeast for 18 hours of fermentation at 60°F • Application • Could be used in many different products • Mostly used in Italian products © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

47. Viennoiserie:Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie Liquid Levain • May be used in low quantities in sweet yeasted dough • It is often “available” at bakeries • Usage: • 10-15% based of FW © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

48. Viennoiserie:Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie Italian Levain • Stiff, active levain with mild acidic flavor • Ideal for Viennoiserie and sweet dough • Improves: • Crust color, shelf life, dough strength, fermentation tolerance, aromas and flavor © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

49. Viennoiserie:Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie Summary of Preferments • Preferments add flavor and keeping qualities to Viennoiserie • Selection may act as a natural way to improve workability of dough • Poolish encourages extensibility • Prefermented dough adds strength © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

50. Viennoiserie:Alternative Processes for Viennoiserie Retarding Viennoiserie • Slowing or stopping the fermentation: • Retard in bulk • Retard shaped • Freezing • Freezing in bulk • Freezing shaped © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.