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Pinch Pot Construction

Pinch Pot Construction.

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Pinch Pot Construction

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  1. Pinch Pot Construction With pinching gestures, you can mold clay into objects such as animals or even make a bowl.  While this form of pottery seems really basic, you can get a feel for the clay you are working with and you will get to know the limits of your clay. (Does it bend easily?  Does it dry fast?  Etc.)

  2. To make a bowl: Begin with a ball of clay. Push your thumb into the center.  Then pinch up the walls.

  3. Turn the piece as you pinch.  This will help you to keep an even thickness in the walls of the piece (Flatten the bottom)

  4. Gently pat the bottom on a flat surface to create a flat spot on the bottom of the piece.

  5. Coil Construction In this section you will learn how to make coils and how make pieces of pottery with them.  Coil pottery is a simple technique that can have great results.

  6. Squeezing the clay into a coil or rolling between your hands are two ways to make coils.  This technique can be difficult to make a smooth round coil because of the uneven pressure from your hands and fingers.

  7. When hand rolling coils, use a smooth surface and spreading your hands to apply even pressure.  Gently roll the clay back and forth. (A good thickness)

  8. Roll the coils so that they are a little thicker than a pencil.  Then stack the coils one on top of another.

  9. For strength, force the clay together on the inside of the piece.  Use you finger and scrape the top coil onto the coil under it.

  10. When smoothing the inside of the piece hold you other hand on the outside so you do not damage what you have completed already.

  11. If you want the top level, gently turn your piece over and lightly tap it on a smooth surface.

  12. When you are finished with your piece let it dry slowly.  The grooves in the piece are weak spots and if this dries too quick it will crack.

  13. Slab Construction In this section you will learn how to put clay slabs together to make a piece of pottery.  Slab construction can have great results if you take your time and do not rush the process.

  14. Begin with a smooth flat surface.  Place newspaper or cloth over the surface to prevent the clay from sticking to your work surface.  Spread the clay out by patting it with your whole hand.

  15. To flip the clay over - carefully hold top and bottom of the clay with the palms of your hands.  This will prevent the clay from tearing while you are flipping it.

  16. To help you roll your clay to an even thickness, place a yard stick on each side and roll out until the clay is the same thickness as your yard stick.

  17. Use a ruler to help you cut a straight line. (Tip: If  you want a 90` corner - lay a piece of paper over the clay to show the 90' corner.)

  18. After you cut out your bottom and sides, let them sit until the clay is leather hard.  For most clay's this will take about an hour.

  19. When your clay is leather hard use a needle or sharp pencil to scratch the edges of the clay where the clay will be joined together.  A criss-cross pattern works well for this.

  20. Make some slip by watering down a small amount of clay until it is the consistency of yogurt.  Apply the slip to the areas you just scratched.

  21. Some potters use white vinegar instead of slip.  I have not had good experiences with vinegar.  I find I get more cracking in my pieces so I mainly use slip.

  22. When placing the edges together slide the two surfaces together in a slight back and forth motion to strengthen the bond between the surfaces.

  23. With experience you will get the feel of a good bond.  You will know you have a good bond when most of the slip has squeezed out between the two surfaces being joined together.  Also, the clay will not want to slide back and forth easily.

  24. To make the seem stronger place a coil in the corners of the piece.  Gently press the coil into the corner.  Be careful not to break your corner away.

  25. I like to use the top end of a brush to smooth out the corners.  Notice my other hand holding the corner so I don't break it away.

  26. I use a damp brush to smooth out all the corners so the seams are no longer visible.

  27. To smooth out the top edge use a wet paper towel and carefully slid the towel up and down the length of each edge.  This will round the edges so they will not be sharp.

  28. If you plan to make a lid measure the length and width of the piece and write down the measurements.  The piece will shrink as it dries and you will need these measurements to make the lid.

  29. Rather than a lid I decided to place handles on each side.  The handles give the piece a focal point and makes it more interesting to look at. 

  30. Once you have completed your hand built slab piece, you will need to dry it thoroughly before firing it.  It is important to dry the piece slowly and evenly.   Handles tend to dry faster than the rest of the piece and that will lead to cracking.  If the piece dries too quickly it may crack or warp.  A good way to dry your piece is to cover it evenly with a newspaper tent this will allow the moisture to escape slowly.  The slower the piece dries the better.

  31. Content by JHPottery http://www.jhpottery.com/jhpottery.html PowerPoint production by Ms. Nickel

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