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Optimal Material Selection for a Camming Head: Ensuring Safety and Performance

This project focuses on selecting the best materials for a camming head device, crucial for rock climbing safety. Key objectives include maximizing friction, holding fixed under dynamic loads of 13 kN, and preventing slippage. The selected material, Aluminum 6061-T6, offers high fracture toughness, a favorable strength-to-weight ratio, and is ductile and formable. Through processes like heat treatment and artificial aging, this alloy achieves optimal performance. Comparisons to 7075-T6 highlight the advantages of 6061-T6 in terms of safety and reliability in climbing applications.

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Optimal Material Selection for a Camming Head: Ensuring Safety and Performance

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  1. Material Selection For a Camming Head Project Participants Scott Eaton Diane Maguire Don Bragg Eric Newberg Dan Brooks Jared Record Peter Gilbert Jeremy Ouellette

  2. Camming Head Objective • Fill width of crack • Prevent slippage of device when loaded • Hold Fixed Under falling situation Dynamic Load of 13KN

  3. Camming Head Function • Maximize Frictional Forces By Optimizing Head Shape • Maximize Working Surface Area • Maximize grip of Head to Rock

  4. Constraints For Material Selection • High Fracture toughness • High Strength to weight ratio • Ductile • Formable • Maneuverable

  5. Aluminum 6061-T6 • 6000’s Main Components of Magnesium and Silicon • T6 Temper Designation That Solution Is Heat Treated and Artificially Aged

  6. Heat Treatment • Magnesium and Silicon are dissolved forming a “Solid-Solution” • Elements fuse to become an alloy.

  7. Artificial Aging • Strengthening Mechanism Equivalent to Precipitation Hardening • Precipitate Will form around grain structure leading to fewer slip planes

  8. Resulting Aluminum Alloy • Fracture Tough • Strong and light • Ductile • Formable

  9. Alternative 7075-T6 • Lower Fracture Toughness • Higher Strength Weight Ratio • Harder Surface-Less Wear

  10. Why 6061-T6 Aluminum • Softness Advisable • Experimentally better against slippage • More Ductile less chance of blowout

  11. References • http://Web.mit.edu/custer/www/ rocking/cams/cam.html • http://www.matweb.com • http://elvis.engr.wisc.edu/uer/uer96/ author2/content.html • Van Vlack, Lawrence H., Elements of Materials Science and Engineering, fourth edition, Addison-Wesley Publishing, 1980. • Flinn, Richard A. and Trojan, Paul K., Engineering Materials and Their Applications, Houghton Mifflin, Boston, 1975. • DeGarmo, E. Paul, Black, J. Temple and Kohser, Ronald A., Materials and Processes in Manufacturing, Macmillian Publishing, 1988.

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